Simon Whaley explores an island that isn’t an island, discovering Dinas Head’s cosy coves, romantic ruins and a wheelchair-friendly path HEADLAND HEAVEN
You know you’re going somewhere special when the road is so narrow the yellow lines on either side practically touch each other. It all adds to the magic of the descent into the cosy, cocooning north-eastfacing cove of Cwm-yr-Eglwys (Valley of the Church).
Here, quaint cottages huddle together in a narrow valley, sandwiched between
Pembrokeshire’s dramatic, rugged coastal cliffs. This valley is all that links Dinas Head – often labelled on maps as Dinas Island – to West Wales, giving it an island-like feel without the need to cross water. The rising sea levels and freak storms we’re experiencing may turn it into a real island, but Cwm-yr-Eglwys has already experienced violent weather. Dominating this sheltered cove are the romantic ruins of St Brynach’s Church, battered by the great Royal Charter Storm on 25 October 1859. The sheer brutality of this weather event wrecked the 12th-century church, as well as 114 ships that were out at sea that day.
ISLAND LIFE
Pembrokeshire’s coastal path circumnavigates Dinas Island, offering fantastic views across
huge swathes of Cardigan Bay. Peer carefully on a clear day for a glimpse of the Llŷn Peninsula. Listen out for the screeches and chattering of nesting razorbills, guillemots and fulmars on Needle Rock, a jagged outcrop a few metres off the headland.
Pause and catch your breath at the 142-metre summit of Pen-y-Fan, with its 360° views, before descending to westfacing Pwllgwaelod. Popular with boaters and protected from northerly winds, this cove is also home to the Old Sailor’s Tearoom and Restaurant, once frequented by Dylan Thomas.
The amble back to Cwm-yr-Eglwys is along a flat, wheelchair and pushchairfriendly path, which means connecting these cosy coves can either be an energetic three-mile circular walk, or a soothing two-mile linear stroll.
1 CHURCH VALLEY
From Cwm-yr-Eglwys’ small car park (with toilets), explore the beach and the ruins of St Brynach. Look out for the model of the Cwm Trader, a flat-bottomed vessel, popular at the time of the Royal Charter storm. These boats were ideal for sailing into small coves such as Cwm-yr-Eglwys at high tide, for unloading by horse and cart at low tide.
Take the narrow lane, signed as a private road and footpath, which meanders and climbs between several cottages. At the end of the lane (a private driveway), turn right on to the signed Pembrokeshire Coast Path, between fences and around a garden, to reclaim the coastal edge. A series of steps opens up great views along the coast towards Newport.
The path bears left, climbing more steps while meandering between high hedges, to reach the entrance to Pen Dinas (National Trust). Pass through a gate to reach a junction of paths. Although either route can be taken, for the best views of Needle Rock take the right fork.
Listen out for the cracking of gorse pods as the June sunshine heats them until they explode, spreading their seeds far and wide. Marvel at the squadrons of speckled wood and red admiral butterflies
“LISTEN OUT FOR
THE SCREECHES
AND CHATTERING OF NESTING RAZORBILLS”
sunning themselves on the path.
2 NEEDLE ROCK
Needle Rock is about halfway between Cwm-yr-Eglwys and Dinas Head summit. Take care here, for the drop is steep and dangerous. Between May and July, this sharp, rocky outcrop becomes a frantic nesting ground for razorbills, guillemots, fulmars and shags, because it’s safe from many natural predators. Check the surrounding waters for seals, dolphins and porpoises, frequently spotted around this rugged sea stack and much of Dinas Head.
The path continues climbing steadily up a series of steps, eventually reaching a gate, perfect for pausing for breath and gazing out along the coastline of Cardigan Bay.
The path narrows, especially at this time of year when the bracken spreads, and eventually reaches a kissing gate. Continue through, then rejoin the field-side path you left earlier.
Turn right, continuing to climb, passing through another kissing gate alongside a field on the left. Finally, fork right to reach the trig point – the