SHIFTING SANDS OF THE EAST

The barrier islands and hidden creeks of the North Norfolk coast shelter prodigious populations of birds under vast East Anglian skies, says Mark Sutcliffe

With an almost complete absence of engineered sea defences, the low-lying coastline of North Norfolk is a paradise for summer wildlife watchers. Inlaid with a complex tracework of tidal creeks and channels, the 12-mile stretch between Brancaster and the old port of Wells is one of England’s last remaining sections of completely natural coastline.

In the Middle Ages, the string of ports along the shores were bustling with coastal traders and, in the late-19th century, the young Horatio Nelson learned to sail here. While the shifting sands of the beaches and barrier islands are in a state of constant flux, little else has changed over the intervening years.

1. LOOK TO THE SKIES

The well-signposted Norfolk Coast Path from Brancaster to Wells traverses the full spectrum of North Norfolk’s outstandingly beautiful seaside landscapes.

Starting on the salt marshes behind Brancaster’s stunning beach, the route follows wooden walkways to the bustling harbour of Brancaster

Staithe, before striking out on the earthen bank of the sea wall, passing Nelson’s birthplace of Burnham Norton and cutting back into another picture-postcard staithe at Burnham Overy. Along the way, look for some of the richest birdlife in Britain, including spoonbills, egrets, avocets and elegant marsh harriers ghosting over the reedbeds.

2. BAREFOOT IN THE SAND

From Burnham Overy, the path follows a tidal channel out towards the open sea, before emerging on to the silken sands of Holkham Beach. Walk barefoot along the beach or seek shade among the pine woods as the path winds its way east to the Lifeboat Station at the mouth of Wells Harbour.

This is a full day’s hike, but there are watering holes aplenty along the way and the ever-reliable Coasthopper Bus will transport you back to your start point from various locations along the route.