A community of wall lizards resides among the cracks and crevices of an old stone wall on the outskirts of Ventnor. This spectacular summer sight conjures up images of distant shores, says
Chris Gee
s we adjust to our new reality, with restrictions on long-distance travel, it is reassuring to know that there are places close to home where it’s still possible to enjoy a taste of something exotic.
The Isle of Wight’s south coast footpath from Ventnor to St Lawrence (four miles) offers an opportunity for a Mediterranean and Caribbean experience. Here you will discover bright green wall lizards, and great sightings of bottlenose dolphins close to shore. I’ve enjoyed watching one 15-strong pod linger for a good 20 minutes in the sparkling coastal waters.
AITALIAN OR FRENCH?
Wall lizards are widespread and common around the Mediterranean. If you’ve ever explored any ancient sunbaked ruins in southern Europe you may have seen several scuttling away into cracks in the stone as you approached.
Native only to Jersey in the British Isles, small colonies of these spectacularly green reptiles have been introduced to the mainland, and one of the best places to see them is around La Falaise, just to the west of Ventnor. The green wall lizards here are most likely descended from Italian stock. Those that originate from France are more likely to be brown.
Much larger than our native common lizards, they love basking in warm sunshine on
Wall lizards, found on the southern shores of the Isle of Wight, range widely in colour, from brown and grey to pea green south-facing rocks, so the stone walls of La Falaise car park offer an opportunity for guaranteed sightings of these fast-moving creatures.
Possibly introduced in Victorian times, maybe as early as 1841 by a Dr Martin, these lizards have now expanded their range westwards, but still largely within the confines of the coastal suburbs of Ventnor. Local folklore suggests they escaped from a wrecked Italian ship, but a planned introduction into local gardens by Victorian naturalists seems more likely.
SECRET COVE
Another highlight of this coastal walk is quirky and hidden-away Steephill Cove, a mix of old wooden beach shacks, upturned boats and crab pots, hugely reminiscent of the Caribbean. Stop at The Beach Shack or The Crab Shed for locally caught crab salad and a cold, refreshing Isle of Wight beer – just the job on a hot summer’s day. The cove is not accessible by car and generally only discovered by those lucky enough to know about it.
The coastal path presses on to Woody Point below St Lawrence, where you can turn around and retrace your steps back to Ventnor, or alternatively, carry on to the village of Niton and catch the bus back.
Chris Gee is the author of