A LAND APART
first tinges are felt here in early August, and the winters may prove too long for many of us.
The AONB’s labyrinthine network of lanes and footpaths is perfect for pottering, and central to the intense feeling of spirit of place that pervades throughout. Here one can bumble peacefully all day, though the downslope rocky paths are slippery when wet and there are ankle-twisting humps, bumps and trippy tree roots. These paths are not for hurrying. And this is pepper-pot country, for there are stone cairns dotted about all over the place, high and low. Some are almost impossible to find, and even harder to refind.
Ecologically, the district lies along the boundary of north and south – where plants and animals of the far south occur at the northern limit of their UK range, and vice versa. The result is a naturalist’s paradise, though climate change is already impacting hugely on this heady mix. The botany is renowned, including local specialists such as dark red helleborine and top national rarities including the Teesdale violet. It is also a nationally important area for butterflies, notably for the rare high brown fritillary and other fritillary butterflies, and for the Scotch argus, whose outpost on Arnside Knott marks the very southern limit of its range.
The village of Warton, above the small railway town of Carnforth, forms the AONB’s southern boundary. Above it stands Warton Crag, the southernmost of the limestone hills. The old A6 runs along the AONB’s eastern boundary, but the hills
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP
The limestone cliffs of Warton Crag, overlooking Silverdale, mark the southernmost boundary of the Area of Outstanding National Beauty; the striking dark brown upperside of a Scotch argus; beautiful dark red helleborines are one of 15 orchid species that thrive in Arnside and Silverdale continue and tower proudly above the M6, a mile or so to the east, before marching off towards the Yorkshire Dales. The broad estuary of the River Kent, which flows down from Kendal, forms the northern boundary. The town of Arnside, with its Victorian promenade and arching railway bridge across the Kent, overlooks this strongly tidal estuary. In summer, Arnside is run by its swifts, which scream over its rooftops each evening.