BBC Countryfile Magazine

Exe Estuary Trail Devon

Journey from the bustle of Devon’s capital to the snaking banks and quietude of the Exe Estuary.

- By Christophe­r Ridout

DISTANCE: 17.2 MILES/27.1 (RETURN)

TIME: 2.5–3 HOURS

LEVEL: EASY–MODERATE ASCENT: 38M TERRAIN:

Easy, flat and mostly off-road cycling along paved and gravel surfaces.

Depart the cathedral city of Exeter and follow one of the oldest surviving canals in Britain, taking in Devon’s premier wetland. In spring and summer, see lapwings court in tumbling displays over the mudflats, as dragonflie­s – including the scarce hairy dragonfly – patrol the ditches. Otters are a rare but enthrallin­g sighting in the upper estuary, and grey seals can be found basking on the sandbanks. The Exeter Ship Canal, which runs parallel to the river, is a popular hangout spot for electric-blue kingfisher­s, while higher in the sky, kestrels and buzzards cast soaring silhouette­s. With the option of returning by train, this route makes the perfect springtime cycle ride.

1 ISLAND PARK

Start at Exeter’s quaint Quayside. The Customs House Visitor Centre offers historical informatio­n about the city and the quay, the latter dating to Roman times when a natural sandstone ledge was used to load and unload boats.

Follow Sustrans’ National Cycle Network Route 34 as it leaves the quay and passes through the Riverside Valley Park and its buttercup-filled meadows on an island between the River Exe and Exeter Ship Canal. The canal was opened in 1566 to enable boats to reach Exeter’s port; the canal was built to bypass weirs that had been erected on the river, forcing boats to dock at Topsham.

2 BIRD SPOTTING

As you pass the Double Locks pub you will see some bird blinds beside the cycleway, ideal for spotting kingfisher­s or herons among the reeds.

Where the cycleway crosses the A379, follow signs for National Cycle Network Route 2 towards Dawlish Warren.

3 BIKES AND BOATS

After two miles you will come to an idyllic lock-keeper’s cottage. From here, if you wish, you can take a foot ferry to historic Topsham (one-way fare £1.30 per person; dogs, bicycles, pushchairs 70p; under-fives free).

Back on the trail, continue southwards into Exminster and Powderham Marshes Nature Reserve, looking out for mute swans, mallards, moorhens, lapwings, Cetti’s warblers and otters in and around the storage pool.

4 FLORA AND FAUNA

After passing the Turf Hotel, the trail crosses the railway line and joins a small quiet lane. This passes Powderham Castle deer park, home to 600 fallow deer as well as oak, chestnut and copper beech trees.

5 RETRACE OR RAIL

After one mile, the cycleway resumes at Starcross and leads to the railway station where you can put your bike on the train back to Exeter, or return the way you came.

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 ??  ?? LEFT The full length of the birdlife-rich Exe Estuary Trail, linking Dawlish Warren to Exmouth, is 22.5 miles
LEFT The full length of the birdlife-rich Exe Estuary Trail, linking Dawlish Warren to Exmouth, is 22.5 miles
 ??  ?? ABOVE The route starts at Exeter’s pretty and historic Quayside
ABOVE The route starts at Exeter’s pretty and historic Quayside
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