Life on the edge

South Stack, Anglesey

Gusting unimpeded across the Irish Sea, the wind makes its presence felt at this clifftop reserve – but that makes it a perfect choice for blowing away the cobwebs. Stride across maritime heathland to reach the RSPB’s glass-fronted café, but – for now – resist the temptation to enter. Instead make for a crenellated white building, a 19th-century summerhouse called Elin’s Tower.

This lofty vantage point grants intimate views of nesting seabirds in spring and summer. Thousands of guillemots form orderly rows on the precipitous rockface, complemented by hundreds of razorbills and several puffins. Offshore, Manx shearwaters flicker black and white, passing the day at sea before returning after nightfall. Meanwhile, summer also sees South Stack’s heathland at its prettiest, clad in purple and pink. Here, spot silverstudded blue butterflies, common lizards and thrift clearwing, a day-flying, wasp-mimicking moth.

If you can’t visit in summer, fret not. With its wavelashed cliffs, network of trails and snow-white lighthouse facing off the sea, South Stack excels for wild walks at any season.

Autumn is best for watching harbour porpoises rotate through the metallic swell. Peering downwards into sheltered coves, you may chance upon a grey seal pup. Ravens and peregrines boss the skies year-round, as do choughs: few crows are as fun to watch as these red-billed ragamuffins as they hang in the wind, then plummet on crumpled wings before twisting upwards with a loud, echoing call.

Now it’s time for the café and a well-deserved cuppa.