Beauty: In a dark spot?
Age spots, sun spots, liver spots – most of our faces show ‘the marks of life’, to quote Shirley Valentine. But Lesley Reynolds says new remedies are here to help…
Known technically as hyperpigmentation, dark spots occur when cells called melanocytes create an excess of melanin – the brown pigment within the skin – to help shield against DNA damage. While UV exposure is the most common cause, it can also be due to hormonal imbalance, injury or just simple ageing. They tend to show up on areas of your body where you get the most sun: face, hands, chest and legs. They tend to be flat, rather than raised, are larger than freckles, usually brown, and often appear in clusters. Any age or skin type is a potential ‘victim’, but the problem often gets worse with age. The earlier you treat them the better. Even tiny spots will keep growing! It’s important to monitor them and get anything unusual checked by a doctor. Although generally harmless, they can be easily confused with other types of sun-related spots that may actually be a sign of cancer.
YOUR HOME SKIN TOOLKIT
A broad-spectrum minimum SPF30 sunscreen used daily will help prevent them getting worse. A mineralbased sunscreen reflects rays. Apply 30 minutes prior to going outdoors.
Consider a supplement such as Astaxanthin, £34 for 60 capsules ( greenpeople.co.uk).
A powerful antioxidant, its benefits include its ability to boost sun protection, while increasing skin elasticity and decreasing inflammation.
Vitamin C is known to help inhibit melanin in the skin and bakuchiol can suppress the activity of melanocytes.
A topical prescriptionstrength retinoid cream used nightly can help fade pigmentation and boost collagen. Ask your GP for advice.
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) help exfoliate the top layer of skin. Niacinamide (vitamin B3) helps slow down the overproduction of melanin.
PIGMENTATION-FIGHTING SKINCARE
VI Derm skincare is my go-to range at the clinic, costly, and needs to be used as a regime. I love VI Derm Retinol Age Defying Treatment Moisturiser, £92. Olay Regenerist Luminous Niacinamide Serum for Brightening
Dark Spots, £29.99, is blended with potent niacinamide and designed to give you a more radiant glow. Ultrasun Face Anti-Pigmentation
SPF50+, £32, uses chemical and mineral filters to absorb 95 per cent of UVA rays. The brand uses lamellar technology, which means it helps lock the protection to skin. Apply Bioderma White Objective Lightening Serum, £24.50, before bed, and it corrects pigmentation as you sleep. No7 Laboratories Dark Spot Correcting
Booster Serum, £34.95, is proven to start fading dark spots in just two weeks thanks to sophora, Emblica and vitamin C. La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C10, £38, is great to brighten hyperpigmentation as well as improve skin radiance. Wear under moisturiser daily. Use SVR Microgommage Lift Renewing Peel Exfoliating
Mask, £24, weekly. Infused with 0.1 per cent retinol to help fade spots, plus volcanic sand and quartz to buff dead skin.
CLINIC TREATMENTS TO TRY
SmartXide CO2 laser treatment helps rejuvenate and resurface skin, improves texture and quality, from acne scars to sun spots. The laser penetrates to create microscopic wounding within the dermis to kick-start collagen production. Best results after six weeks. From £350, three treatments 6-10 weeks apart gives optimum results. IPL EXCELIGHT is a 30-minute procedure which fires light at skin to break up the pigmentation that is then cleared by the body. It’s fast, safe and you’ll see instant results, but for best results try a course of three to six, a month apart. From £150. Chemical peels lift pigment and restore radiance and are a great option for darker skin tones. Peels can range from mild (glycolic) to deep (such as TCA), but expect downtime and redness. Typically three to six treatments spaced out by three to four weeks is needed. From £150.