118 Touring the Swiss Alps.
Engineering world-class curves and swerves is second nature to Swiss road builders. They haven’t just built the country’s most famous passes and downed tools, you know. Those Swiss roads just keep on giving
Swiss asphalt quality ranges from very good to excellent and scenery averages out at amazing. Switzerland has top notch tarmac because it’s the richest (and most expensive) of all Alpine countries. Pay the price, however, and you’ll get access to the best riding in the Alps. The country attracts fewer visitors precisely because it’s more expensive, and fewer visitors means fewer road users. Locals make courteous and cautious drivers who seldom cut corners.
Everyone knows about the famous mountain passes. But the smaller roads like the Panoramastrasse Oberaar very close to the Furka and Grimsel passes are good too. Turn west off the Grimsel Pass right opposite the squat black Hotel Alpenrösli and get treated to six kilometres of stupendous views back down the Grimsel and west across the Oberaarsee reservoir. The road is so narrow that it’s controlled by a traffic light which only allows traffic to travel one way at a time. The Pragel Pass is another good one.
The Swiss are very keen on speed limits wherever there’s a village, a house or the merest suggestion you’re in a settled area. Be sure to obey the signs, as police patrols along with speed cameras are not rare. Usually, as everywhere in the Alps, you won’t find that much speed enforcement on winding mountain roads. The lesserknown the pass, the more this holds true.
Switzerland uses a Vignette system to pay for its motorways. Simply put, you buy a sticker that’s a substitute for toll booths. Buy one at the first services you come to, because getting caught without it will seriously hurt your bank balance. It’ll cost 40 Swiss Francs (that’s £32.90) for a whole year – you can’t buy one valid for a shorter time period. For a map go ahead and click through to autobahnen.ch
Food is not cheap. Some bars will charge up to 8 Euros for a litre of water, which means an easy lunch stop can cost 15 Euros without even reaching for a chocolate bar. If you’re on a budget, save by visiting supermarkets. Prices are around 20% higher than surrounding countries.
Try the amazing cheese fondue at Gasthause Ochsen in Andermatt. This small, family-owned restaurant will guide you through different tastes of fondue and recommend great wine to accompany them. Don’t expect to eat and drink below 50 Euros per person. When in Interlaken, visit Huesi Bierhouse. This place makes some lip-smacking home brew, but there’s also a good selection of imported beers, often on tap.
Staying overnight in places like Andermatt, Interlaken, or Luzern is a costly experience. You’re doing well if you’re quoted 50 Euros per double room. My favourite hotel is River House in Andermatt. Their terrace allows for a great view complemented by the relaxing sound of a creek running nearby. Enjoy while finishing a glass of draught beer at sunset. Just make sure you’re enjoying the romance with your significant other half, and not your riding buddies.
A visit to Zermatt for a view of the Matterhorn is also really rather expensive, as is the famous Jungfrau viewpoint south of Interlaken. Both are amazing and worthwhile travelling to, but you could ride around the Dolomites for a whole day for the same price. Definitely consider camping (30-50 Euros per site) if you’re visiting in July or August and want to travel on a budget.
Spending a week here? From east to west, enter Switzerland from the Stelvio Pass, approached via the lesser-known but no less splendid Umbrail Pass. Continue to St.moritz through Livigno and then through Bernina to Maloja and Splungen. Reach Andermatt and take a few days to explore the region. The Matterhorn is a possibility if you don’t mind the crowds in summer, and darker skies in the off-season. Reach Interlaken for epic views of Jungfrau’s 4158-metre summit, nestled in idyllic scenery. That’s the Swiss Alps in a nutshell.