BUYING CLEANING STUFF
Nobody likes cleaning their bike, but use the right stuff and you’ll do it quickly, and you’ll do it well…
Let’s face it, bike cleaning isn’t fun. But using the right stuff helps…
WHY SHOULD I USE A DEDICATED MOTORCYCLE DETERGENT?
A detergent differs from a shampoo wash. It’s your pre-wash and it’s going to do the hard work of breaking down road contaminates and getting the bike ready for a wash with a good shampoo. There are plenty of motorcycle-specific spray-on-wash-off detergents out there, designed specifically to loosen tar, bugs, etc. Think Muc-off Nano-tech Bike Cleaner (£9.99), Sdoc100 Gel Cleaner (£11.99) and Autoglym Motorcycle Cleaner (£11.99). Guy Martin’s even brought out his own, environmentally friendly, wash: Proper Cleaner (£7.99). I always use a pre-wash even on what looks like a clean bike. I start by getting the bike wet and applying the product. I then leave it for a few minutes to allow the magic to happen. You should always do this when the bike is cold, preferably on a cool day and out of direct sunlight to prevent the pre-wash drying, which can lead to staining on the bike.
HOW ABOUT MATT PAINT AND WHEELS?
Matt paint needs special care. On a microscopic level the clear coat applied to a matt finish features peaks and troughs and looks like a mountain range compared with the more uniform, level clear coat applied to a standard gloss finish. These microscopic dimples are the reason why matt and satin doesn’t reflect light in the same way as gloss. Matt-specific products are designed to ensure these molecular-level peaks and troughs don’t get worn away or filled in with excess product which then leads to irreparable patches of shine. Try Motul E11 Matte Surface Clean (£9.49), and Muc-off Matt Finish Detailer (10.99).
For wheels I use a product with a ‘bleed’, which helps break down the baked-on iron deposits from brake dust. I use a professional-spec product that’s PH neutral. Autoglym Magma (£10.99) does a similar job.
WHAT SHOULD I LOOK FOR IN A PRE WASH?
The phrase to look for is: ‘safe on all surfaces’. This means it won’t tarnish carbon-fibre bits, anodising, screens or alloys. This should also mean the solution is PH neutral, so you don’t have to worry about it attacking metals or plastics if you fail to rinse properly. Some products claim Nano Technology, or molecules that loosen grime’s grip and help prevent cross contamination during rinsing.
WHAT’S WRONG WITH JUST USING WASHING UP LIQUID?
Your common or garden washing-up liquid is designed to cut through grease on crockery, pans and utensils. Consequently it will strip protective waxes off a bike, which you don’t want to happen. A good car shampoo, on the other hand, will remove dirt without compromising wax coatings. It will also contain water softeners to ensure it dries with a streak-free finish. Buy the best one you can afford and always use two buckets – one for the soapy solution and the other for periodically rinsing your mitt. Meguiar’s are a good place to start as are the, ever reliable, Autoglym. Oh and buy a good mitt too.
WHAT CLEANING TOOLS WILL HELP ME DO A BETTER JOB?
Don’t use a sponge when lathering your paintwork with shampoo because they have a nasty habit of holding contaminants which can damage your bike’s surfaces. A better bet is a wash mitt, which can be picked up cheaply from as little as £5. Microfibre cloths are ideal for both cleaning and removing polish, as the tiny-fibre construction means they’ve got massive surface area which allows you to get things done quicker and easier. When it comes to drying I prefer waffle clothes to chamois leathers because they’re very absorbent. I also use a small electric dryer. You can pick them up for £50.