TOURING NORMANDY
A simple three-hour ferry ride from Portsmouth, Normandy is a ‘proper’ trip that’s right on the doorstep…
A short hop over the Channel and you’re into a different world.
The best way to Normandy from the United Kingdom is by ferry from Portsmouth to Cherbourg. Once ashore in France the temptation to simply jump on the Autoroute and head south is strong. However, this is a bad move because Normandy is awash with great stuff. Let’s face it Lonely Planet don’t rate Normandy as one of the top ten regions to visit in the world without many very good reasons.
Start your Normandy adventure by taking the D901 out of Cherbourg, then follow the D45 along the western coast for undulating country roads and ocean views. This road often runs mere meters from the rugged northern shoreline with its small coves dotted with rocky outcrops and lighthouses. There is also very little traffic and speed cameras are sparse. We can’t really ask for much more than that.
Next follow the D45 for around 20 miles until you get to Cap de la Hague which is home to the highest cliffs in Europe – they rise 128 meters above sea level, and provide spectacular panoramic sea views. Stop off here to enjoy the Goury lighthouse and Nez de Jobourg – a rocky outcrop.
From Cap de la Hague take the D901 and then join the D37 down to Vasteville. From here it’s the D64 all the way to La Plage de Siouville-hague for a spot of lunch and a cup of coffee. It’s also worth taking time out to watch the surfers here. Fully refreshed head south for 17 miles on the D650 for a stop off at the harbour town of Barneville-carteret, or continue on the D650 down to the Cathedral city of Coutances. On the way take in Portbail; try the Aux 13 Arches Bar, the Chateau Fort de Pirou and Pirou beach.
Another from-cherbourg option is to head east on the D45 before picking up the D116 coastal road to the stunning harbour town of Barfleur with its great restaurants, coffee shops and the French RNLI museum. After Barfleur follow the coastline south on the D1 to St Vaast la Hougue and the fortified Island Ile de Tatihou. From here stay on the country roads down the coast and the Normandy D-day landing beaches, beginning at Utah Beach.
This route enjoys what are considered to be the best biking roads in Normandy, with grippy, smooth surfaces, excellent views and historic landscapes.
Normandy’s D-day landing sites are a moving and awe-inspiring experience. Consider: Caen Memorial Centre; Pegasus Bridge; Sword Beach and the Atlantic Wall Museum; Juno Beach; the Mulberry Harbours and the D-day Museum at Arromanches; Omaha Beach – American Cemetery and Overlord Museum; Pointe du Hoc; Utah Beach and the Museum of Landings and Saintemère-église and the Airborne Museum.
Villedieu-les-poêles offers a change of scenery from the coastal rides. Take the D911 from Sourdeval to Tinchebray – it’s an exciting route that provides fantastic ‘canopied’ riding through the valley of the La Sée river. Here you are in the heart of La Suisse Normande – a beautiful, steep and undulating route around the Orne Valley south of Caen. Scenery buffs
should definitely try the route from Pontd’ouilly along the D168 to Clecy.
Like the rest of France Normandy does very well when it comes to its food and drink Some of the highlights are… Cheese: this region is home to three of France’s favourites – Camembert, Livarot and Calvados’s Pont-l’évêque. Cider: try the 25-mile La Route du Cidre, starting in Beuvron-en-auge for the full tasting experience. Fish: everything from lobsters to mussels, scallops to whelks. Crepes: usually made with a good slug of Calvados. Teurgoule: rice pudding made from full-fat milk, cinnamon, sugar and nutmeg, cooked for several hours in the oven for a caramelised top.