Epping Forest
A site of significant international conservation importance – and London’s biggest open space – is a wonderful habitat for some great birding
An ancient woodland which is well worth a visit to tick off a number of brilliant birds
On the north-eastern outskirts of Britain’s largest city lies a verdant oasis of some age. Epping Forest is an area of ancient woodland straddling the border between Greater London and Essex. A former royal forest, it is managed by the City of London Corporation and covers 6,118 acres, containing areas of woodland, grassland, heathland, rivers, bogs and ponds. Two-thirds of it is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and a Special Area of Conservation. Stretching between Forest Gate in the south and Epping in the north, the forest is approximately a dozen miles long in the north-south direction, but no more than 2.5 miles from east to west at its widest point and in most places considerably narrower. The forest lies on a ridge between the valleys of the rivers Lea and Roding; its elevation and thin, gravelly soil (the result of glaciation) historically made it unsuitable for agriculture. The age of the forest and the range of habitats it contains make it a valuable area for wildlife. Its former status as a working or pasture forest has had a great effect on its ecology. This is particularly evident with the pollarded trees which, as they have not been cut since the passing of the Epping Forest Act of 1878, have now grown massive crowns of thick, trunk-like branches with correspondingly large boles. This gives the trees an unusual appearance not known in other forests. Often the weight of the branches cannot be supported by the parent tree and the large amount of deadwood in the forest supports numerous rare species of fungi and invertebrates. Although the Epping Forest Act almost certainly saved the forest from destruction, it must to some extent have had a deleterious effect on the area’s biodiversity. The pollarded trees allowed light through to the woodland floor, increasing the numbers of low-growing plants. Since the Act, the vast crowns of the pollards cut out most of the light to the underbrush. In addition, the area surrounding the forest is now urbanised; the corresponding reduction in grazing has led to former areas of grassland and heathland being overcome by secondary woodland – this has been exacerbated by most of the forest’s deer being enclosed to prevent impacts with vehicles on the major roads that run through the forest. The wide variety of habitats in Epping Forest gives rise to a diverse array of birdlife. In the woodlands, members of the tit and thrush families are easily heard. Flocks of finches and tits bounce between trees or forage on the woodland floor. One may catch a glimpse of the more discrete Treecreeper or Nuthatch as they move round the trunk of a tree; listen out for the distinctive call of the Nuthatch or the drumming of Great and Lesser Spotted Woodpeckers.
The shy Jay, undoubtedly our most colourful member of the crow family amongst the other monochrome corvids, is naturally associated with woodlands and one may hear its screeching call as it flies covertly between trees. In the thickets of scrub, Chiffchaff, Whitethroat and other warblers make their home in the spring and summer. One might also spot the tiny Goldcrest, Britain’s smallest bird. In the grasslands, Green Woodpecker and Starling forage, while Sky Lark nest in tussocks. The song of the male Sky Lark, pouring forth from high above, is a highlight. The areas where grassland, scrub and woodland meet are often the most diverse, as they provide a mixture of habitat and food items for bird species to live on. Flying across the forest habitats are birds of prey, such as Buzzard, Kestrel, Sparrowhawk and, occasionally, Hobby, Goshawk and even the occasional Red Kite. In the north of Epping Forest, the loud, mewing calls of Buzzard ring out as they soar and wheel overhead, while Kestrel are a familiar sight hovering over grass verges. In the forest, a tell-tale pile of feathers or remains of a pigeon often betray the presence of a Sparrowhawk. Waterbirds, such as Mute Swan, Great Crested Grebe, Gadwall, Goosander and Wigeon inhabit more than a hundred lakes and ponds. Out on the buffer lands within the farming landscape, Pheasant, Yellowhammer and other ‘farmland’ species are present. At dusk, one may see Barn Owl flying low across fields. As one might imagine, there is a healthy population of Tawny Owls.
More to explore
Anywhere in the forest is worthy of exploration, but the area of Wanstead stands out. Wanstead Park is managed by the City of London Corporation under the terms of the Epping Forest Act, although for historical reasons, the style of management and byelaws differs from that of the rest of the forest. The habitat includes several lakes and ponds, which in winter hold good numbers of Mute Swan, Gadwall, Tufted Duck and Mallard, with lesser numbers of Pochard, Shoveler and Teal. Rarer winter visitors include small numbers of Wigeon and occasionally Goosander or Goldeneye. Little Grebe are resident breeders, while Great Crested Grebe are also present. Coot and Moorhen are numerous and the lakes also support small numbers of Kingfishers, with the occasional Water Rail. There are also several areas of old woodland, with the usual array of species and some open grassland. Woodpeckers are most numerous, indeed and one stands a good chance of seeing all three species. Chalet Wood is good for Redwing in the winter and Reservoir Wood can have large roving tit flocks, with more interesting things tagging along, such as Firecrest and Coal Tit. There is a large population of Jackdaw, while Swallow, both Martins and Swift are to be seen in summer. Wanstead Flats lie to the south of Wanstead Park and are a much larger area than the park at around 320 acres. The habitat is largely grassland with gorse and broom, with an excellent variety of species such as Sky Lark, Meadow Pipit, Reed Bunting and wintering Stonechat. Winter thrushes are usually scarce, but Mistle Thrush is a common sight on the playing fields. During migration, one can expect regular Spotted Flycatcher and Lesser Whitethroat and, if the conditions are right, there is the possibility of something rarer such as Redstart, Pied Flycatcher, Ring Ouzel or Dartford Warbler. Wheatear and Whinchat are annual. There are a few copses of larger trees and a few scattered areas of denser cover, which is worth checking for the commoner finches and warblers. Little Owl is occasionally seen. A large part of the area is given over to football pitches, favoured by smaller gulls and corvids when not in use, with a smattering of larger gulls – occasionally even a Great Black-backed Gull. The dominant species is Common Gull, so keep an eye out for a Ring-billed. There are also a few ponds, all much smaller than those in Wanstead Park and not surprisingly supporting fewer birds, apart from the largest, Alexandra Lake, which has a large population of Canada Geese numbering several hundred. The second largest pond is Jubilee Pond and the third is Angell’s Pond. At the north-western end of the Flats, the southern tip of Epping Forest begins, an area known as Bush Wood. This is reasonably dense ancient woodland, again with the usual mix of woodland species, although Nuthatch and Treecreeper are notably absent, and are barely annual in Wanstead Park. Tawny Owl is present all year and Hobby is frequently seen in summer. More than 115 bird species have been recorded in this area. Wherever and whenever you go, take time to consider the venerable old trees and the multitude of wildlife that call them home. Millions of Londoners are unaware of this treasure which is right on their doorstep.