Urban birding in the Czech Republic
The Urban Birder visits this wonderful city on a quest for the Black Woodpecker…
David Lindo on the quest of the Black Woodpecker in Prague
To my shame, I have only been to the Czech Republic’s capital city once, for a week in August back in 2002, and while walking the night time streets, I was frequently bumping into drunken revellers. During the day, I was working on a commercials set in the famous Barrandov Studios, so once again my birding opportunities were incidental. Outside the studios, I would regularly see Black Redstart families quivering their tails from the top of walls and rooftops.
I was also in Prague at the time of its worst flooding in 400 years. The banks of the Vltrava, the river flowing through the centre of the city, broke, resulting in several roads being impassable. This limited my already severely limited birding in the city to just one venue, Petrˇ ín Hill, an area of parkland that was not dissimilar to London’s Holland Park, situated in an area called Mala Strana.
Within sight of my hotel, this area is essentially an upmarket locale dominated by the wooded hill that is Petrˇ ín. One beautifully sunny morning, I decided to spend some time exploring this urban park. On the way there, I diverted to cross the internationally known Charles Bridge, pausing to watch a party of Black-headed Gulls hawking over the engorged river and over the heads of a large herd of semidomesticated Mute Swans.
According to the Czech Society for Ornithology, it is one of the most important wintering areas for waterbirds such as Pochard, Tufted Duck and Coots in the Czech Republic. Recommended, though, is the stretch of the river at Trója, which is in the vicinity of Prague Zoo, where you could expect Teal, Goosander, Goldeneye and scarcer visitors.
When I arrived at Petrˇ ín, I was confronted by a wooded hill that was crowned by what looked like a mini Eiffel Tower. It all seemed very touristy. Indeed, there were plenty of strolling families and tourists on the many paths, plus a light railway/tram that provided an alternative mode of transport through the park.
Despite the numbers of people and the potential for disturbance, I was pleasantly surprised by the abundance of birds. A couple of Turtle Doves flew over as I was scrutinizing the drifting Swifts. I am always delighted to see these sexy doves because not only are they gorgeous, but their alarming decline in Europe sparks an impulse in me to enjoy every one I see, as if it were to be my last.
Green and Great Spotted Woodpeckers entertained me while a solitary Middle Spotted Woodpecker was a welcomed addition to the list. All the while, I was searching in vain for my then bogey woodpecker species that so typifies this part of Europe: the super funky Black
Woodpecker. The thing that really struck me about being within the wooded areas of Petrˇ ín Hill, was how the birds allowed me such close approach. I practically walked up to a female Redstart on a branch over my head, as she quivered her tail quite unconcerned.
The Hawfinches were also ridiculously approachable. I watched a female and her offspring out in the open less than 15 feet away from me. I felt so privileged watching a bird that we know at home as being extremely shy and retiring, going about its business with no regard for me – in the middle of a city!
Remarkable size
Perhaps the most surprising bird I saw close up was a juvenile Honey Buzzard that I first noticed quietly sitting in a tree trying to hide from me. Initially, all I could see was its brown head and neck, as its body was obscured by branches and foliage. I slowly raised my bins to notice its dark eyes and yellow cere. It obviously decided that I had seen enough and lazily flew off, landing clumsily into foliage some distance from me. Its size was remarkable, and its jizz immediately struck me as being kite-like. It was an encounter that I will never forget. I also noticed Short-toed Treecreepers that seemed to be common, as well as loads of Marsh Tits.
I saw what I thought were female-type Pied Flycatchers, but I was aware that the very similar Collared Flycatcher also frequented the area. I wasn’t able to discern the latter’s paler rump band and bigger white primary patches, so I cautiously opted for the commoner species. More easily recognised were the plentiful Spotted Flycatchers sallying to and fro, and above them, the aerial masters that are Swallows, House Martins and wafting Swifts.
I mentioned the Black Woodpecker earlier. It was a species that had eluded me for years, previously. As a last throw of the dice, while in Prague, I decided to visit Divoká Šárka, an area of forest country park on the outskirts, some 20 minutes taxi ride from the city centre. I only had a few hours to try and luck onto one.
On arrival, I was greeted by the sight of a pair of Buzzards soaring on the thermals. Walking through the forest, I had great views of several singing Wood Warblers and roving flocks of the Central European, frostier headed race of Long-tailed Tits. But the Black Woodpeckers that I so craved were nowhere to be seen.
Dejected, I headed back to where my taxi was waiting. On the way, I came to a forest clearing so I decided to give my woodpecker hunt one final effort.
As I was about to give up, I noticed a dark, crow-sized bird flying towards me in a flight pattern that was a cross between a woodpecker and a Jay. It was a Black Woodpecker and it flew right over my head! Yay!