Birding n the FAR NORTH OF SCOTLAND
Grouse, Capercaillie and Ptarmigan are among the many wonderful bird species that this lovely country has to offer
Many of us are looking forward to the time when we are able to enjoy birding around the globe once more, though it seems we will need to be patient for at least a while. In 2021, it may still be possible to enjoy exciting birding in the UK, and even travel overseas without catching a plane! I’m referring of course to Scotland, already firmly in the sights of many birders planning journeys for next year.
The resident specialities are of course just that – special. You have to visit Scotland to see Capercaillie, Ptarmigan, Scottish Crossbill and Crested Tit, within the boundaries of the UK; and their habitats in Caledonian Forests and on the very high mountains are just as spectacular as the birds themselves. Add in Black Grouse, and both Golden and White-tailed Eagles, and already a visit to this underpopulated and breathtakingly beautiful country is irresistible at any time of year.
In this short article, I’ve chosen just one species, Ptarmigan, to illustrate the birding year, though all the grouse species are ‘season-specific’. In winter, Ptarmigan are pure white, and in heavy snow descend a little in altitude (though not much), making them sometimes easier to find by telescope.
Walking uphill in snow is something you should consider carefully before setting off. A better choice might be to wait patiently in a place where you have good visibility of likely habitat, and the birds may show. Ptarmigan tend to rely on camouflage at all seasons, so often only reveal themselves after some time, even when white. By April, birds are in pairs, having moulted into a ‘half-and-half’ plumage, white underneath and predominantly grey (males) or chequered browns (females) above.
As spring develops, you are more likely to see males first, and should you come across one at close quarters, immediately stand stock still! He is quite likely accompanying a female, and she may be sitting very close to your feet. Check to see she isn’t at close quarters, and safely retrace your steps; you should still enjoy good views of the male, though please withdraw completely at an early stage. Males are protecting their mates, not against predators out of chivalry, but against others who might wish to mate with her.
Like many grouse, Ptarmigan are great mothers and poor fathers; once her eggs hatch, the female will lead the chicks across open ground alone, the male having flown. Capercaillie and Black Grouse are even more centred on a one-parent system, females flying away from the male after mating. Red Grouse fathers, on the other hand, are excellent parents, leading the family from the front, and responding readily to any distress calls from the growing young.
Beautiful and fragile
Should you come across a clutch of empty eggs on the hillside, a little fieldcraft is helpful. If the eggs are in halves, they have probably hatched successfully, having been cut open by the hatchling. You might even see a reassembled empty shell; the female does this to avoid the white insides attracting flashes of light and thus predators, though in many years on the mountains I’ve only seen this a handful of times.
Broken eggs probably are a sign of predation, and remember that gulls and crows maraud the mountains, sustained by food scraps left after human passage, branching out into scarce local wildlife when opportunity allows. Take everything home with you!
In the autumn, Ptarmigan moult again into softer grey tones, and groups of males and young birds together are the most commonly seen. In these warmer days, vegetation on Scottish mountains seems to be increasing, and there must be a worry that this beautiful and fragile bird will find itself homeless due to habitat loss. Already the heather and grasses seem to be much higher on Cairn Gorm, and even Scots Pine regeneration seems to be happening at higher altitudes.
Elsewhere in Scotland, breeding birds begin to arrive in late-March, and by early May you can add Corn Crake, Osprey, Dotterel, Slavonian Grebe, and both Red-throated and Black-throated Divers.
Of course, it isn’t just about these wonderful headline species. The far north of this small island holds many delights, and passerines, raptors, waders, ducks and gulls all breed inland, too, making for fascinating days wherever you spend them.
As a cherry on top of this rich birding cake, don’t forget that our coastline
provides an ever-changing cornucopia of migrants and other breeding birds, including auks, terns, shearwaters, petrels, geese and much more, including the wind-blown rarities you could expect on our exposed and extensive northern shores.
In short, Scotland has everything you need, and with so much changing all the time, you can come in any season to suit your own busy schedule, and there will be many things to delight all birders!
So, what else should you know to enjoy Scotland’s birding delights in these difficult days? The first and fairly obvious thing is that if the international situation remains unchanged, we will be very busy up here! Plan your trip well in advance, and make sure your route and accommodation are all in place well before you travel.
Check schedules
Most of our discussions with hotel partners here at Heatherlea are currently about 2022, bookings for 2021 have been confirmed for a long time already, and you might find it difficult to book or even find places to park a motorhome at very short notice. If you want to visit islands, then Calmac are an important contact, keep an eye on their schedules, usually announced in January, each year.
There can be significant changes, so don’t assume that ferry schedules will be the same as last time you came! You can, of course, reach Skye without a ferry, and there are specific operators for more northerly destinations – make sure you know all the options, as inclement weather can intervene in any season.
Back on the mainland, one of the most popular routes is the ‘North Coast 500’, which takes the traveller to some very remote and beautiful places. The birdlife of the far north is amazing, with significant auk cliffs and their attendant skuas, plus nearby terns, gulls and waders.
There are secluded spots, particularly where freshwater reaches the sea on north-facing coasts, where you can see waders congregate in late spring, taking advantage of local insects, lugworms and other food, before blasting off across the cold northern sea to their breeding grounds in Scandinavia or Iceland.
Secluded havens
Dunlin with black bellies, Sanderling with pure white underparts, Ringed Plover, Whimbrel and even the odd Dotterel can be found alongside godwits, Turnstones and Purple Sandpipers, while Curlews and Lapwings loudly advertise the benefits of settling in Scotland to raise a family. Twite, Raven, Hooded Crow, Stonechat, Wheatear and Linnets decorate these secluded and little explored coastal havens, too. Watch out for White Wagtails, which make their way around our coasts in spring, and check the flocks of ducks offshore, and geese on the fields – you never know!
This fashionable northern circuit is well travelled these days, so take time to explore other coastal ‘loop roads’ beyond the ‘500’ itself, and don’t worry about following the actual mapped route. There will be plenty of non-birders along this popular trail, and particularly in high summer the narrow roads can be slow, as bikers, campers and families getting away from it all head for the hills. Black Guillemot, both eagles, Otter and much more will occupy your time in the far north, and if you have local B& B’s booked at regular intervals, then a relaxing circuit of this spectacular route is a good idea.
Another key tip is to consider that many traditional sites will likely be busy, so places around Strathspey (eg Loch Morlich) will perhaps require more planning than usual. Visit these iconic locations earlier in the day than you might normally, and have a second, less obvious destination lined up, so you can keep a little distance and enjoy peace and quiet.
Wildlife has been thriving during the quiet months imposed on us all in 2020, and numbers of small birds, Red Squirrel, Brown Hare and other species traditionally seen close to man appear to be healthy, but all birds and mammals will avoid the crowds next year!
In the current environment it isn’t possible to be at all specific about the birding opportunities available to anyone, though Scotland still ranks high on the list of accessible and rewarding places to visit.
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