Birding n MONTENEGRO
Spectacular scenery, wonderful hospitality and great birds can all be expected in this Balkan country
The tiny new state of Crna Gora is better known under its Italian name, Montenegro. The English translation – ‘Black Mountain’ – might sound a little dull, but Montenegro is a land exploding with colour. Carpeted with flowers for much of the year, the country’s muscular peaks are dappled with the dark greens of pine, Beech and birch from which turquoise streams rush down to a tantalizingly azure blue sea. Fringing it, the coastline is dotted from border to border with beaches of yellow and volcanic grey, and huddles of picturesque, orange-roofed houses – a postcard come to life.
It’s nigh on impossible to come across a travel section without someone trumpeting Montenegro as the new ‘it’ destination. And, though the country is rightfully revelling in the spotlight, the people remain as they’ve always been: candid, convivial and charming.
Unlike in many other emerging destinations, hassling and scamming visitors isn’t big on Montenegrins’ agenda; for the most part, you’re more likely to encounter a spontaneous bear hug than a bothersome tout. Whether you’re chasing highland hospitality or coastal comradery, expect gregarious greetings, the shirt off your host’s back and the addition of at least five kilograms; these folks love to feed.
It’s not even 187 miles from tip to toe, but Montenegro’s coastline crams in some of Europe’s most spectacular seaside scenery. Mountains jut sharply from crystal clear waters in such a way that the word ‘looming’ is unavoidable. Ancient walled towns cling to the rocks and dip their feet in the water like they’re the ones on holiday. In summer, the whole scene is bathed in the scent of wild herbs, conifers and Mediterranean blossoms. All of this and much, much more is wrapped up into an area two thirds the size of Wales. You could spend a week in Montenegro and cover all the key sites.
When the beaches fill up with Eastern European sunseekers, intrepid travellers can easily sidestep the hordes by getting off the beaten track in the rugged mountains of Durmitor and Prokletije, the primeval forest of
Biogradska Gora or in the many towns and villages where ordinary Montenegrins go about their daily lives.
Hike, horse ride, mountain bike or kayak yourself to somewhere obscure and chances are you’ll have it all to yourself. This is, after all, a country where Wolves and bears still lurk in forgotten corners.
Ever since the Roman Empire split in two, 1,600 years ago, Montenegro has sat on the borderline between east and west. The richness of its cultural history can be seen in the mosaic floors of Roman villas, flamboyantly painted Orthodox monasteries, ornate Catholic churches, elegant minarets of mosques, and the sturdy fortresses built by the numerous powers that have fought over these lands.
Then there’s the legacy of a half century, as a non-aligned communist state, independent of both the Eastern Bloc and the West. For those with even a passing interest in European history, it’s a fascinating place. And then there’s the birds.
Boka Kotorska Bay, southern Europe’s longest and deepest fjord, is on the Adriatic coast of this small country, but elsewhere along the coast there are beaches, sand dunes, saltpans and the delta of the River Bojana, important migration stopovers for waders such as Marsh Sandpiper. Inland, Levant Sparrowhawks nest in woodlands, while open country with olive groves and rocky outcrops is productive for Rock Partridge, Roller, Bee-eater, Lesser Grey Shrike, Olivaceous and Eastern Orphean Warblers, Rock Nuthatch, Black-eared Wheatear and Black-headed Bunting.
Between the mountains lies Lake Skadar, the largest freshwater lake in Europe, westernmost nesting site of Dalmatian Pelican and home to thousands of Pygmy Cormorants, as well as Whiskered Terns.
The coniferous forests and open slopes of the relatively unspoilt rugged mountains support Golden Eagle, Three-toed and Black Woodpeckers, Nutcracker, Alpine Chough, Sombre Tit, Rock Thrush and Rock Bunting. Birding is best in April and May, but the later the better for finding Olive-tree Warbler.
Mountains, lakes and birds
Almost 50 miles to the north of the capital Podgorica, in the north of the country, Durmitor National Park is a largely unspoiled mountainous area that includes several lakes and part of the Tara River Gorge. The largest lake is Black Lake and the nearest settlement, Zabljak, is a skiing centre.
Breeding species include Rock and Grey Partridges, Quail, Nightjar, Woodpigeon, Honey Buzzard, Short-toed and Golden Eagles, Scops, Eagle and Tawny Owls, Syrian, Green and Grey-headed Woodpeckers, Kestrel, Peregrine, Redbacked and Lesser Grey Shrikes, Crested and Sombre Tits, Wood Lark, Sky Lark, Whitethroat, Goldcrest, Short-toed Treecreeper, Ring Ouzel, Song Thrush, Robin, Nightingale, Redstart, Rock Thrush, Whinchat, Dunnock, Linnet, Yellowhammer, Rock and Cirl Buntings.
Small numbers of Corn Crake breed regularly. Tourism and recreation has an impact which, though currently limited, could worsen if further development of skiing facilities takes place.
A little more than 30 miles to the south-east, Biogradska Gora National Park is a largely mountainous area in Bjelasica, including several small lakes and large, old-growth forests. The largest lake is Lake Biograd, while the nearest settlements are Mojkovac and Kolasin.
Breeding species include Rock and Grey Partridges, Quail, Nightjar, Woodpigeon, Short-toed and Golden Eagles, Scops, Eagle and Tawny Owls, Syrian, Green and Grey-headed Woodpeckers, Kestrel, Hobby, Peregrine, Red-backed Shrike, Crested and
Sombre Tits, Wood Lark, Sky Lark, Whitethroat, Goldcrest, Short-toed Treecreeper, Ring Ouzel, Song Thrush, Robin, Nightingale, Rock Thrush, Whinchat, Dunnock, Linnet, Yellowhammer, Rock and Cirl Buntings. Threats are the same as Durmitor.
In the far south of the county, Skadar Lake National Park is a large lake (also known as Lake Scutari) shared with Albania, 12 miles to the south of Podgorica, with wetlands on the northern side; several rivers supply the lake.
This is a very important site for breeding (Ferruginous Duck and Squacco Heron), wintering (Teal, Pochard, Tufted Duck, Coot, Great Crested and Black-necked Grebes, as well as Great Egret) and passage water birds, holding more than 20,000 individuals throughout the year. Numbers in winter range from 150,000 to 200,000 and in November numbers on passage regularly average 250,000 birds.
Breeding land birds include six of the 21 species in Europe that are restricted (when breeding) to the Mediterranean biome, including Olive-tree and Subalpine Warblers, Black-eared Wheatear and Black-headed Bunting. Rock Partridge, Pygmy Cormorant, Dalmatian Pelican and Western
Rock Nuthatch are resident.
Large quantities of chemicals are thought to have entered the lake some years ago, with devastating consequences for fish and birds. Many of the latter are believed to have suffered large declines as a result. Additional threats include fishing and poaching. Unsurprisingly, this is an IBA in danger.
Lakeside feeding
Lake Šas is a small lake 18 miles south of Lake Skadar and part of the Bojana River catchment. It’s situated about six miles inland from the Adriatic coast, almost on the border with Albania, forming a transboundary IBA with Velipoja. A colony of breeding herons and cormorants existed at Lake Sasko, formerly, but shifted in the late 1980s and early 1990s, probably to the Albanian side of the border, near the Bojana.
Birds from the colony still visit Lake Sasko regularly to feed. Breeding species include Grey Partridge, Garganey, Pochard, Redshank, Whiskered and Black Terns, erns, Pygmy Cormorant, Glossy Ibis (a few pairs), Spoonbill, Bittern, Little Bittern, Night (20 pairs), Squacco and Purple Herons, Scops, Eagle and Little Owls, Green Woodpecker, Kestrel, Woodchat Shrike, Jackdaw, Sombre Tit, Crested Lark, Savi’s and Sardinian Warblers, Whitethroat, Blackbird, Robin, Nightingale, Yellowhammer and Ortolan Bunting. This is another IBA in danger. Four miles further south, the town of Ulcinj holds an area of saltpans (with freshwater in winter and spring; saline in summer and autumn), largely without vegetation, bordered by agricultural land. Human activities include salt extraction. The site lies more than three miles to the south of Lake Sasko and is also a transboundary IBA with Velipoja. The site is important for breeding and feeding waders, several of which are species of European conservation concern. Collared Pratincoles breed while non-breeding Pygmy Cormorants occur. Due to the presence of the salt extraction plant, hunting and human disturbance are controlled, but the industry itself causes some disturbance and changes in water level sometimes flood nests; yet another IBA in danger.
Bursting at the seams with majestic mountains, breath-taking beaches and larger than life locals, minuscule Montenegro proves once and for all that good things do indeed come in small packages.