Birding Argentina
Birdwatching tours are not just for male birders, as nowadays many more women are finding their own wings to explore new parts of the globe
Penny Robinson enjoys a host of exotic species, including Field Flicker, on a birdwatching trip to South America
Women travellers are certainly not a new breed, but thankfully, they no longer have to have a story as intrepid as Jeanne Baret’s to tell. Times have changed – as have any potential stereotypical images you may have of those who sign up for a birding tour.
To have to be disguised as a man is no longer the only possible way for women interested in the natural world to travel; incredibly, this was the method ingenious Jeanne used as she boarded the French Naval Ship ‘Etoile’ in 1766 as Assistant Natural Historian.
Travelling as myself, with no disguise necessary, I embarked on an organised group tour of four of the northern provinces of Argentina – The Land of
Silver, which is going for gold as a nature traveller’s destination. This is a vast country and, in my experience, a safe one. It has habitats as diverse as any other and a rich, varied landscape strewn with jewels of fauna and flora.
Group travel really is an excellent way to see the best of what a country such as Argentina has to offer, especially as an independent woman traveller. Whether it’s a long-term love affair with nature or newly found interest in what is available to discover, make the most of expert knowledge.
A group tour provides birding hotspots, transportation, accommodation and excellent English speaking local guides. You can then enjoy every moment with excitement, rather than any worry about what is around the corner in a potentially overwhelming country.
According to many UK operators, including Naturetrek, Avian Adventures and The Travelling Naturalist, as well as
Wings in the USA, the number of independent women travelling on their tours is increasing. Whatever the balance of the group is, everyone shares the same interests and the encyclopedic knowledge you will find among your fellow travellers serves as a mobile library of field guides.
You will find camaraderie rather than competitors on the tour bus – unless you hog the front seat! Comfort stops on some days may be basic; ‘bush facilities’ is probably going to be necessary at some point on your travels, and hair-dryers are not always a priority for remote eco lodges.
The journey begins
Go back to the days of being a girl guide – and Be Prepared. Get hold of a country’s field guide and do some homework; check the Avibase country or region lists or delve into eBird, especially in the case of larger countries. Even if you feel you may be less knowledgeable, at least you will have some idea of what you may or may not see – of course no penguins would be on my list in northern Argentina.
Keep binoculars, notebook and camera to hand to capture the moment as well as trusty comfortable shoes, insect repellant, waterproof mac and umbrella, sunscreen and hat. Don’t forget the other essentials of patience and a sense of humour. I felt my normal sense of adventure when travelling was in no way diluted by being with others.
Gathering at Gatwick, our appetiser en route stop was in Asuncion, Paraguay. First in the group to have binoculars to hand, while the boys on tour grappled with inconsistent airport WiFi, I enjoyed a spot of airport birding, starting our lists with Fork-tailed Flycatcher and Greybreasted Martin among others. Onward to Córdoba. For Birdfair faithfuls, you may remember the 2018 project was to raise funds towards protecting the vast Mar Chiquita salt lake area by creating a new National Park. This will be the largest National Park in Argentina.
An abundance of Chilean Flamingos as well as an abundance of empanadas greeted us. Córdoba’s hospitality was faultless. Friendly and welcoming, with a genuine desire to host more of this new breed of, up to now, vagrant travellers to this region, we delighted in the resident species. The area is gradually developing as a birding destination with the local tourist board working in conjunction with Aves Argentina.
A mass of dancing flamingos, as well as a variety of waders, can be seen from the shore, including Wilson’s Phalaropes. Boat excursions are now being introduced for birding trips. Miramar, with a ‘seaside’ resort atmosphere, provides lake side accommodation and plenty of hotels and restaurants with photogenic Burrowing Owls nesting near the quayside.
Climbing away from Mar Chiquita and standing on the bare rocks of Quebrada del Batan, we were in awe at the silent approach of the iconic Andean Condor soaring above. Pan pipes gave way to Queen’s Don’t Stop Me Now as a Peregrine rocketed into view providing a 10-minute fully fuelled flight display of sheer exuberance. Onward and upward, we reached the high grassland Alti Plano at Pampa de Achalla and Parque National Quebrada del Congrito.
Here, we had close encounters with Long-tailed Meadowlark, Córdoba Cinclodes, a beautifully songful Córdoba Canestero and Olrog’s Cinclodes. Trying to keep up with the list can be a challenge; and between us we had good old-fashioned pen and paper, mobile phone noting and eBird – signal permitting. The evening list group compilation proved interesting, on occasion.
Being able to add any omissions with the accolade ‘good shout’ altered what can be quite a challenge into an almost gameshow-like atmosphere where everyone’s a winner. Keeping good notes of your sightings, whatever your preferred system, while keeping an eye out and seeing something new is something at which, as multi-tasking aficionados, women can thrive. Double checking and asking is a must, though, especially when unfamiliar names are so similar: Buffbrowed, buff-breasted, buff-chested... and do take a spare pen.
Next stop Salta. The scale of the Andes suddenly becomes apparent. Vast areas of savannah, rocky cliffs, high grassland and cacti add to the spectacle of this arid landscape, with Least Seedsnipe, Elegant Tinamou, Andean Lapwing and Tawnythroated Dotterel nestling among the scrub. Guanacos, Llamas and Vicuñas graze near riverbeds, as you climb to an incredible 4,995 metres on a rough dirt track, to be greeted by Chaco Earthcreeper.
Amazing birds, amazing people
Descending to the still high altitude Laguna Del Torro passing Grey-breasted Seedsnipe and Burrowing Parrots to then see both Puna and Andean Flamingo – meaning sightings of all three possible flamingo species in a matter of as many days – was well worth the trip. Red-legged and Black-legged Seriemas can both be seen on a trip to the Yungas Forest.
Experiencing the amazing hospitality of Pachakanchay Eco Lodge, who take the ‘Eco’ part very seriously, creates a place even sceptics of sustainable tourism could not fail to admire.
It clearly demonstrates how tourism can be of such benefit to the conservation of fragile environments.
Corrientes is home to the Ibera
wetlands. Pampas Finch and Scarletheaded Blackbird balance atop breezeblown grasses while Maguiri Storks patrol the water’s edge. Pottoos can be founding nesting in woodland and Bare-faced Ibises roost alongside Blackbellied Whistling Ducks.
The incredible Great White Egret and Roseate Spoonbill breeding colony at Estancia San Juan Poriahou ranch was a sight to behold. Running a working cattle ranch, but equally successful as a committed conservationist, owner Marcos provides excellent accommodation for guests lucky enough to share his passion for this original Jesuit building, owned by his family for over a century.
Greater Rhea and Southern Screamer are roadside sightings on the way to visiting Miranda Collet’s ranch, Reserva Don Luis. Her dedication to creating a multi-hectare haven for wildlife is apparent. Listening to how Miranda’s conservation vision became reality was inspirational.
Exploring part of her ranch we had excellent views of Strange-tailed Tyrant and Marsh Deer, coupled with an amazingly tame White Monjito and families of Capybara posing for photos.
One of Earth’s natural wonders
Argentina may be the eighth largest country in the world, yet it is home, bordering Brazil, to the largest waterfall on the planet, Iguazu, in the Misiones region. This giant of a natural wonder, where Great Dusky Swifts clutch the constantly soaked stone and fly through the torrential flow of water to nest, is unforgettable. With the larger number of tourists here, the benefit of a guide who is allowed access to the park before the general public opening time is massive.
Julian Baigorria, our biologist guide, showed us the best of what the rest of the Iguazu region has to offer, including his own beautifully preserved hectares of cloud forest, Karadya Bio Reserva. Big ticks, too, on the avian front, with excellent views of Toco Toucan, Blackfronted Piping-Guan, White-winged Swallow, and Band-tailed and Whitebearded Manakins. He showed us the gem which is Suracua Lodge, where we were greeted by a cacophony of Red-backed Caciques, nesting by the front door. The well arranged cabin accommodation nestled perfectly into the forest bordering the river. The effusive welcome of Laura and knowledgeable guiding of Adrian mirrored the spirit of the whole trip – a great fun voyage of discovery.
So, like me and to a certain extent as a 21st Century undisguised Jeanne Baret, get packing, forget about a hairdryer and enjoy what is on offer.
Choose a tour suitable for your pace and knowledge, from beginners to those with more experience. Pick up the phone and chat to the operators. They want to provide the most suitable tour for you; listening to their advice should reap the just rewards of your travel investment. If you’re worried about being the only woman on the tour, don’t be! If you’re hesitant about joining a group tour, contact a guide such as Julian who can give you the freedom of a personalised visit within a reasonable budget. However you travel, you will be rewarded with your own great voyage of discovery.