Delightful DEVON
With many of us considering the option of visiting more UK birding hotspots when regulations allow, the county of Devon will be a popular choice… DEVON HAS A WIDE VARIETY OF HABITATS. FERTILE ESTUARIES BREAK UP THE RUGGED COASTLINE NORTH AND SOUTH
With its verdant meadows, winding country lanes and cosy thatched cottages, Devon has long been idealised as a vision of a pre-industrial, ‘authentic’ England. In fact, much of the county is now inhabited largely by retired folk and urban refugees, but there is still tranquillity and sugar-free charm to be found here, from moorland villages, to quiet coves on the cliff-hung coastline.
Reminders of Devon’s leading role in the country’s maritime history are never far away, particularly in the two cities of Exeter and Plymouth. These days, it is the ‘yachties’ who take advantage of the numerous creeks and bays, especially on
Devon’s southern coast, where ports such as Dartmouth and Salcombe are awash with amateur sailors.
Landlubbers flock to the sandy beaches and seaside resorts, of which Torquay, on the south coast, and Ilfracombe, on the north, are the busiest. The most attractive are those which have preserved traces of their 19th Century elegance, such as Sidmouth, in east Devon. Inland, the county is characterized by swards of lush pasture and a scattering of sheltered villages, the population dropping to almost zero on Dartmoor, the wildest and bleakest of the West’s moors.
Exmoor, with wonderful wooded valleys attractive to birds, is the prettier of the county’s two national parks, while
Red-backed Shrikes are attempting to re-establish themselves on Dartmoor. The island of Lundy in the Bristol Channel is good for vagrants, while the southern coast holds localised but increasing pockets of Cirl Bunting.
Birds and butterflies
Within the western reaches of East Devon AONB, the quiet Aylesbeare Common RSPB, consisting of pebble-bed lowland heathland, ponds, streams and wood fringes, holds Buzzard, Dartford Warbler and Yellowhammer, all year. Spring and summer brings Nightjar, Hobby, Stonechat and Tree Pipit, while Hen Harrier are possible in winter. There are a good range of dragonflies, including the rare and local Southern Damselfly, and butterflies.
Six miles to the west, on the east bank of the River Exe, Bowling Green Marsh RSPB comprises coastland grassland, as well as open water and marsh. Large numbers of Shoveler, Wigeon, Teal, Golden Plover, Curlew and Black-tailed Godwit winter, as well as Brent Goose and Avocet.
Spring brings Shelduck, passage Garganey and waders including Ringed Plover, Whimbrel, Ruff, Little Stint and other sandpipers, as well as Yellow Wagtail. The gull and tern roosts are of interest in summer and high tide wader roosts contain many passage birds. Wildfowl, wader roosts and Peregrine feature in autumn. Entomologists will find interest in Hairy Dragonfly and Wasp Spider.
On the opposite bank of the Exe, Exminster and Powderham Marshes RSPB is Devon’s premier wetland, incorporating coastal grazing marsh with freshwater ditches and pools, reeds, scrub-covered canal banks, winter stubbles and crops managed for farmland birds.
Hundreds of Brent Goose and Wigeon inhabit the marshes in winter, plus smaller numbers of other common ducks, Water Rail and Short-eared Owl. In spring, wildfowl and Redshank breed, as do Cetti’s Warbler on the canal banks. Sadly, this is Devon’s final breeding site for Lapwing.
Summer brings passage waders, gull roosts, Hobby and hirundines, while autumn holds winter wildfowl, Shorteared Owl, Peregrine and finch flocks. There are also records of Wood Lark and Cirl Bunting. The reserve has 23 species of dragonfly including the scarce and local Hairy Dragonfly and the very local Scarce Chaser.
Great variety
Five miles to the south, on the south side of the mouth of the Exe Estuary, the mudflats and shore of Dawlish Warren National Nature Reserve are a hightide roost site for wildfowl and waders on the estuary. One can usually see about 20 species just before high tide. The reserve is also made up of dunes, dune grassland, ponds, scrub and woodland. Waders and wildfowl are the main attraction in winter, but the site is also good for divers and Slavonian Grebe offshore. Summer is particularly good for terns, but there is an excellent variety of birds all year, especially on migration.
Six miles along the coast to the south-west, Labrador Bay RSPB covers 1.25 miles of coastline a few miles south of Teignmouth. Part of a working farm grazed by cattle in summer and sheep in winter, other habitats include coastal arable, clifftop, semi-improved grassland, scrub and woodland.
The reserve was purchased in 2008 to help secure the future of the Cirl Bunting, which can be seen all year round, as breeding pairs in spring and summer, plus in flocks during autumn and winter, when they feed on the stubbles with other farmland birds including Sky Lark, Chaffinch and Yellowhammer. Buzzard and Peregrine are also regular. Offshore, dolphins and Basking Shark may be seen.
Nine miles to the south, in the South Devon AONB, Berry Head National Nature Reserve near Brixham is composed of 200-foot limestone cliffs, grassland and a quarry. Fulmar, Peregrine (hunting in the quarry area) and Cirl Bunting (in flocks in autumn) are resident. In spring and summer, up to 1,200 Guillemots nest on the cliffs below the Southern Fort, while the reserve is well known as a migrant hotspot. Shearwaters and skuas can be seen offshore.
The limestone flora includes Slender Hare’s Ear, eight species of orchid including Autumn Lady’s-tresses, as well as Autumn Squill; while mammals include Greater and Lesser Horseshoe Bats, as well as Common Dolphin and Harbour Porpoise offshore. Walks are arranged to see the former. Invertebrates of interest include the alarming Bloodynosed Beetle and a range of butterflies.
Ten miles to the south-west, Slapton Ley National Nature Reserve, also within the South Devon AONB, is the largest freshwater lake in south-west England, lying south of Dartmouth on the south coast. It is one of the nation’s finest freshwater reedbed and aquatic areas. Intriguingly, although it is only separated from the sea by a narrow shingle bar, it is entirely freshwater. Marsh, reedbeds and woodland constitute the remaining habitats.
Seasonal delights
There is good sea-watching in favourable conditions during spring and autumn, plus migrants on passage and a large gathering of Swallow in autumn roosts. In winter, divers and grebes are on the sea and Bittern occur at Higher Ley, while diving ducks and grebes are found on Lower Ley. Migrant warblers feature in spring and summer.
Cetti’s Warbler (around 40 singing males each year) and up to four pairs of Cirl Bunting are resident. The reserve’s Great Crested Grebe population is the most south-westerly in Britain. Slapton Ley is also the only site in Britain for Strapwort.
Mammals include Hazel Dormouse, Badger and Otter. Slapton Ley Field Centre offers residential courses on behalf of the Field Studies Council.
Sixty miles to the north-west, on the south side of Dartmoor, Burrator Reservoir is surrounded by open moorland scrub, pine forests and wooded steams. Winter brings Goosander, Green Sandpiper, Dipper, Grey Wagtail, Brambling, Lesser Redpoll, Crossbill and Siskin, while Sparrowhawk, Buzzard, Barn Owl, all three woodpeckers, Kestrel and Tree Sparrow are resident. Other fauna of note includes Marsh Fritillary and dragonflies, especially in the arboretum, as well as bats and Otter.
Fifteen miles to the north-east, on the western edge of Dartmoor, East Dartmoor Woods and Heaths National Nature Reserve consists of three connected sites (Yarner Wood, Trendlebere Down and Bovey Valley Woodlands), a total of 365 hectares (900 acres) of upland heathland and oakwood. Yarner Wood has probably existed as woodland since prehistoric times.
Resident species include Sparrowhawk, Goshawk, Buzzard, all three woodpeckers, Raven, Dartford Warbler (on Trendlebere Down) and Grey Wagtail. Spring and summer brings Cuckoo, Nightjar (on heaths), Sky Lark, Wood Warbler, Whitethroat, Pied Flycatcher, Redstart, Stonechat, Tree Pipit and Linnet.
In autumn and winter, there is a good range of birds with feeding at the hide including Lesser Redpoll and Siskin, plus Hen Harrier on Trendlebere Down. There is also a good range of butterflies, including fritillaries and Grayling.
A few miles to the south-east, Bovey Heathfield is a mix of wet and dry lowland heath, surrounded by secondary woodland covering 58 acres and containing numerous ponds. Nightjar, Dartford Warbler, Stonechat and Tree Pipit breed, while commoner species include Sky Lark, Linnet and Yellowhammer.
Other notable wildlife includes heathers, wet and dry heathland plants, more than 60 endangered insect species, Green Hairstreak and Grayling, Slow Worm, Grass Snake and Adder. The adjacent industrial estate somewhat takes the edge off, but it is worthy of a visit.
Devon has a wide variety of habitats. Fertile estuaries break up the rugged coastline north and south. There is heathland in the east. Both coniferous and deciduous woodland. Hilly farmland. And of course high moorland.
Devon offers freedom. Its rippling, beach fringed landscape is studded with historic homes, vibrant cities and wild, wild moors.
Here you can ditch schedules and to do lists and hike a rugged coast path, take a scenic boat trip or get lost in hedge lined lanes that are not even on your map. Wherever you go, the scenery is usually magnificent and the birdlife equally as distracting.
● For more information please see
visitdevon.co.uk and also
devonbirds.org/home
The Rough Guide to Devon and Cornwall (6th edition) is a highly recommended general guide.
DEVON OFFERS FREEDOM. ITS BEACH-FRINGED LANDSCAPE IS STUDDED WITH HISTORIC HOMES, VIBRANT CITIES AND WILD, WILD MOORS