SNEAKY PEAKS
SION MORGAN finds there’s much more to the Peak District than tea rooms and hiking
FROM steep limestone valleys to dramatic ridges, majestic moorlands to secluded caves, the Peak District National Park is an area of stark beauty in the heart of Britain. Dotted around its countryside are quaint market towns and chocolate box villages, characterised by meandering streams, immaculate greens and tearooms serving traditional delights.
And if all that sounds a little dull, there’s also plenty of adventure on offer.
From hiking and cycling trails to watersports, there are peaks to conquer (the clue’s in the name) and underground caverns to explore. Meanwhile, urban centres such as Sheffield are less than an hour away. To the north is Manchester. To the South, Staffordshire, the Potteries and Alton Towers.
We were staying in the tiny estate village of Tissington, a few miles outside Ashbourne on the southern tip of the national park. Pretty as a picture, the village is dominated by Tissington Hall, built in 1609. Cottages and agricultural buildings that once served the grand house are now largely holiday lets or small businesses serving tourists. Our own accommodation was once a barn which housed the Hall’s fire-fighting pump.
Now a restored onebedroom cottage, it sits opposite the village pond, and is ideal for a couple looking for a romantic retreat (or, in our case, a couple with a toddler gleefully distracted by her new quacking neighbours).
The spacious master bedroom has an en-suite featuring a luxurious roll-top bath. The kitchen is small but perfectly adequate for holiday cooking, while the lounge with its beamed ceiling is stylish, homely and incredibly cosy.
The village is served by a tea room, traditional sweet shop and a butchers – and that’s about it.
The three-mile Tissington Trail – perfect for horse riders, cyclists, naturalists and walkers – takes you south to Ashbourne, where we hired bikes for the day to explore the area.
Ashbourne itself has charming cobbled alleyways littered with old market stalls and welcoming coaching inns. Many fine Georgian buildings remain, hosting a good selection of restaurants, wine bars and interesting antique shops. There’s also plenty of modern amenities, supermarkets and takeaways among them.
Also near Tissington – just two or three miles away – is the valley of Dovedale, one of England’s most photographed beauty spots, with iconic stepping stones across the River Dove, and Thorpe Cloud, an isolated limestone hill. While the village is ideal for exploring the south side of the Peak District on foot, it is also a great base for days out. Alton Towers is just 14 miles away.
Head north-east for around the same distance and you’ll find one of the UK’s most beloved historical buildings, Chatsworth House.
Alternatively, stop off at beautiful Bakewell for an exceptionally good Bakewell pudding or tart. We gorged at the Old Original Bakewell Pudding Shop restaurant and then filled our bags with goodies from their bakery.
Further south again, Matlock Bath looks and feels like a seaside town. Set in the gorge of the river Derwent, the town is famous for its fish and chip shops, amusements and even an aquarium.
Meanwhile, Carsington Water – a man-made reservoir – offers kayaking, bike hire, sailing and fly fishing seven miles to the east of Tissington.
For those looking for a hearty meal, the Peak District is littered with wonderful gastropubs. We found the
Old Dog sitting off the beaten track in the village of Thorpe to be an unexpected delight, specialising in gourmet burgers and craft beers.
The Peak District is a perfect escape to the country and you can easily spend a week doing nothing but enjoying its calming surroundings. One thing is certain: you won’t be bored!
was a guest of Sykes Cottages, who offer Fire Brigade Barn, Tissington, for a seven-night stay starting at £450, and rising to £900 for peak summer season 2020. The one-bed cottage does have a sofa bed in the lounge but is designed with two people in mind. Pets are also allowed but smoking is not. Bed linen and towels are included and roadside parking on a first come, first served basis, with additional public car parking 200 yards away.
SION MORGAN
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