HOTEL OF THE WEEK

GRADUATE HOTEL

Cambridge

WHERE AND WHY: US brand Graduate Hotels, which has properties in college town locations, has unveiled its first European outpost in Cambridge on the banks of the River Cam.

The quirky lobby is filled with nods to the university city, from the punts lining the walls to the huge installation suspended in front of the reception desk representing the double helix DNA structure discovered by scientist Rosalind Franklin.

The retro theme is carried through to our room, one of 148, with a green velvet upholstered armchair, wood and leather desk bureau and flamboyant tapestry headboard. The bathroom sports a patterned wallpaper and a mirror in the shape of a university crest. Many rooms overlook the river.

ON THE MENU: Chef Adam Wood has brought his skills from London’s award-winning Perilla restaurant to the open grill of the Garden House. His passion for local and British produce shone through in the eclectic seasonal dinner menu, kicking off with an amuse-bouche of moreish coffee and seaweed-flavoured crisps.

Dishes are served tapas style, so the starters of grilled sweetcorn with honey and fennel butter, £7, and Cornish bass, cauliflower and brown butter, £17, arrived at the same time as our mains. Our mains were grilled Norfolk quail with girolles and redcurrants, and local Flourish Farm’s onion with Berkswell cheese tart, £22.

The signature dessert, a slice of Cambridge burnt cream tart, £8, and the surprising salted caramel flavoured mushroom ice cream, £4, delivered a sweet finale.

Breakfast offers include a continental, £12, as well as a vegetarian full English option of Glamorgan sausage, portobello mushroom, spinach, tomato, egg and baked beans, £14.

WHILE YOU’RE THERE: Take a punt along the river a tour by Scudamore’s. Explore the stunning King’s College Chapel, £10, shop.kings.cam.ac.uk.

WAKE-UP CALL: Doubles from £189 per night. Parking £21. graduatehotels.com/cambridge