Brewing and drinking in days gone by
A tour of the historic ale houses of Smethwick and Bearwood
Landlord John Lucas was fined 40 shillings in 1888, when three men were found drinking after hours, hidden under a bed
IN the early 19th century, Smethwick was a small village with a population of barely 1,000. The Industrial Revolution first came to the area when James Brindley’s Birmingham Canal opened in 1769. Foundries were established, including James Watt’s Soho Foundry in 1796 and, by 1851, its population had grown to over 8,000. Chance’s glassworks had been established, supplying glass for the Crystal Palace Great Exhibition and many lighthouses. Other notable firms included Avery’s scales, Tangye’s pumps and Nettlefold’s screw works. All this heavy industry was thirsty work and, over the years, more than 150 pubs served the area, supplied by several local breweries, the largest being Mitchells and Butler’s (M&B) Cape Hill Brewery.
Probably the oldest pub in Smethwick is the Red Cow in High Street, originally dating from 1706, where the country’s last bull-baiting competition was held in 1845. It was taken over by Ansell’s (Birmingham) in 1927 and replaced by one of their “Fewer and Better” pubs in 1937. Nearby was the Sow and Pigs, a home-brew pub dating back to 1818, before being taken over by M&B in 1893 and replaced by the Park (1893-2011), purpose-built by local architects, Wood and Kendrick.
At the other end of High Street, the Blue Gates dates from 1781 and was rebuilt on the other side of the road in 1932. It was at the heart of the local community, holding functions for local swimming and cricket clubs, firemen, policemen, postmen and draymen from Cape Hill brewery. Nearby, the North Western (1871-1970) was known for its regular boxing matches, while the George (18641981) was demolished to make way for the by-pass.
Henry Mitchell, founder of M&B, kept the Crown (1851-1981) until 1871 and built his original Crown Brewery here in 1866 before moving to Cape Hill in 1878. Joseph Whitehouse brewed his Golden Sunbeam Crystal Shilling Ale at the Old Talbot (1841) until it was acquired by Cheshire’s Brewery in 1898, while the New Talbot (18551965) was once an Atkinson’s (Birmingham) pub. The Golden Cross (1835) was known locally as the Stuffed Donkey, kept in the passageway, but was replaced by a bank in 1936. In Queen Street, Frederick Webb kept the Queen’s Head (1855-1965) between 19481963.
Oldbury Road was home to almost 20 pubs, including the Swan Hotel (1733-2003), rebuilt on the opposite side of the road in 1829 and again in 1934. Landlord Samuel Downing was a maltster at the Plough (1834-1935), who let Howson Taylor use his kiln to produce pottery for the famous Ruskin Pottery. At the Britannia (1839-1968), landlord John Lucas was fined 40s. in 1888, when three men were found drinking after hours, hidden under a bed!
Galton Bridge was built by Thomas Telford in 1829, named after Samuel Tertius Galton, Quaker industrialist and economist, and manufactured by Horseley Ironworks in Tipton. At 151 feet long, it was once the longest singlespan bridge over the largest earthworks in the world and gave its name to the Galton Bridge Inn (1861). The Waggon and Horses (1851), once a Showell’s Brewery (Langley) pub, was rebuilt in 1970 and later renamed Desi 2. The Grapes (1861-1923), Five Ways (1864-1931) and Duck (18701939) became cafés, while the Railway Tavern (1871) closed in 1960. The Shenton family kept the Spon Croft (18701999) from 1910-1931, but it was rebuilt on the other side of the road in 1938 and kept by William and Edna Tonkinson until 1963. At the Glasshouse Tavern in George Street (1861-1939), landlord William Powell set the cellar on fire when he was boring a hole in a rum cask, killing his son.
The oldest pub in Rolfe Street was the Boot and Slipper (1850), which became a printers in 1932, not far from the Staffordshire Knot (1871-1982). The Local Health Board held their first meeting at the Star (1851-1997), known locally as the Wrexham. In 1870, Edward Cheshire started his brewing career at the Cock (1851-1903), before moving to the New Church in Windmill Lane (1870-1969) where he established Cheshire’s Windmill Brewery in 1886. Nearby in Suffrage Street, the Robin (1870) was originally the Robinson Crusoe until it was renamed in 1994. On the corner of Cross Street, the Crown and Anchor (1851-1975) was rebuilt in 1893. The Railway (1871-1903) was a Showell’s (Langley) pub, while the Station (1870-1970) was once a Cheshire’s Brewery pub.
On the corner of Crocketts Lane and Union Street, the New Inns (1845-1970) was originally a homebrew pub where John Morris
brewed his own beer until it was acquired by M&B. In Lewisham Road, the New Navigation (18182007) was originally known as the Old Navigation, but changed its name when the new line of Thomas Telford’s Birmingham Canal opened in 1829. In Halfords Lane, the Old House at Home (1861-1997) was originally coal-dealer Daniel Holloway’s house, built in the 1840s. In Great Arthur Street, the Boatman (1834-1971) was home to J.W. Kingstone’s Summit Brewery.
In Soho Street, the Old Corner House (1861) on the corner of Rabone Lane was originally the White Horse, renamed in 1990. The London Stores (1883-1966) was known locally as the Plug and Dodger, while the Old Crystal Palace (18611964) was known as the Coppertop, due to its large dome. At Six Ways, the Victoria was originally the Crystal Palace, before being renamed and rebuilt in 1893 and closing in 1960. In Baldwin Street, George Hudson kept the Falcon (18612011) from 1928-1961.
In Cranford Street, the Moilliet Arms (1850-2013) was named after local landowner and financier, John Lewis Moilliet. At the Castle (18611931), landlord Walter Hamer was fined £9 5s. in 1908 for allowing customers to fire air guns for pints of beer! William Butler, one of the founders of M&B, began his brewing career in 1866 at the London Works Tavern in London Street (1851-20 11). The Soho Foundry Tavern (1861) in Foundry Lane recalls James Watt’s nearby foundry. In Grove Lane, the Globe (1882-1910) was once a Holder’s Brewery (Birmingham) pub, while the George (1860) became Maan’s Bar before closing.
In Cape Hill, the Cape of Good Hope originally dated back to 1814, but was rebuilt in 1925 and replaced by Mcdonalds in 1994. It was once kept by James Mason, the father of Titus Mason, who founded the wellknown mineral water company. Titus Mason also kept the Windmill (1855-2001) in Windmill Lane and the Waterloo Stores off-licence in Shireland Road. This was rebuilt in 1908 as the Waterloo, a flagship pub for M&B by Wood and Kendrick and Grade II listed. The Seven Stars was one of the oldest beerhouses in Cape Hill, but was rebuilt for Cheshire’s Brewery in 1890, while the Dudley Arms (1916) became a shop in 2011.
Another venerable tavern is the Old Chapel at the Uplands, dating from before 1737 and Grade II listed. Originally known as the Hand of Providence, it was renamed in 1889 and acquired by Cheshire’s Brewery in 1898. Nearby, the Holly Bush dated from 1861, but was rebuilt in 1903.
The oldest pub in Bearwood is undoubtedly the Bear, originally dating from 1718, when it was a farmhouse and inn. Rebuilt in 1906 for Holt’s Brewery (Birmingham), it once held popular dances. Several nearby “Fewer and Better” M&B pubs include the Barleycorn (1939), Shireland (1924), purpose-built by George Webb, Abbey (1931) and Thimblemill (1928), built by Wood and Kendrick. Newer pubs in Bearwood include the Midland, formerly a bank and now a Black Country Ales pub, and the Craft Inn, a new micro-pub near Hagley Road.
Although Smethwick has lost much of its heavy industry and many historic pubs, around 20 remain, to bring back memories. ■ With acknowledgement to Tony Hitchmough, Joseph Mckenna, John Maddison and the Black Country Society.