Thirsty work in old coal mining town
STEVE JAMES takes a tour of Brownhills pubs past and present
I DOUBT whether many would say that Brownhills is in the Black Country, but with its collieries, brickworks and other industries, it shares many similarities with Black Country towns. As the Industrial Revolution arrived, Brownhills became a coal mining village, boosted by the opening of the Wyrley and Essington Canal in 1797 and the railway in 1849. By the end of the century, Brownhills had grown from a settlement of 300 people to a town of more than 13,000, most of whom worked in the coal-mining industry. This was thirsty work and, over the years, Brownhills was served by at least 40 pubs.
High Street was originally known as the Old Chester Turnpike Road, with a tollgate at Anchor Bridge. Here, the Anchor, previously the Old Anchor Inn, dated back to the construction of the Wyrley and Essington Canal, and had stables for canal horses, but was rebuilt in 1986. There was a tragic incident here in 1906, when landlord, Thomas Humphries, shot his wife and then himself during a domestic quarrel.
Towards Shire Oak we’d find the Royal Oak, replacing an earlier pub dating from the mid-1800s. Locally known as the “Middle Oak”, it’s remembered for its 1930s art-deco style and Lichfield Brewery ales.
At the historic junction of Chester Road and Lichfield Road is the Shire Oak, dating back to 1849, home to Thomas Boulter’s brewery and known locally as the “Top Oak”. Between Shire Oak and Muckley Corner, the Boat once sold Blencowe’s Ales (Cannock) and was known as “Oddfellows in the Boat”. Not far away, the Old Leopard originally dated from 1750, but is now a private house, as is the Red White and Blue. At Muckley Corner itself was the Muckley Corner Hotel, renamed the Olde Corner House Hotel and now converted into housing.
At the other end of High Street, near the railway station, was the Station Hotel, owned by William Roberts from 1860 until his death in 1906. He was originally a pit boy and railway ganger who established his Station Brewery here, advertising “William Roberts’ Brownhills Celebrated Station Ales”… “brewed from choice Malt and Hops, and the purest water in existence” that “have so won their way into popular favour that Brownhills Brewery has become a household word.” “Brewer Roberts” eventually became a local magistrate and was a great benefactor to the town, giving its first Merryweather “Gem” fire engine in 1898. The brewery once owned 26 pubs, but was sold to Eley’s (Stafford) in 1925. With its music hall, the Station Hotel was the centre of social life and entertainment for the town, and survived until 1983 when it was later replaced by a supermarket.
One of the most prominent landmarks in the town today is the huge steel statue of Jack “Jigger” Taylor, erected in 2006 to commemorate a famous local coal miner who died when the roof of Walsall Wood colliery collapsed in 1951. This has spawned two modern pubs along High Street, the Jigger’s Whistle micro-pub, opened in 2017 by owners Colin and Theresa Cragg, and Jack “Jigger” Taylor, opened in the former Midland Bank premises in 2021.
William Roberts also owned the Royal George, built in the 1860s and known locally as the “Fourpenny Shop”. In 1928, it was replaced by the Regent Cinema and later by the Ravenscourt shopping precinct. He also owned the Warrener’s Arms (1859-1999) on the corner of Ogley Road. This was originally part of Richard Gildart’s Warren House
Farm and named after the rabbit warrens he introduced. It was also home to Brownhills Early Closers FC. In the historic Ogley Square on the corner of Mill Road, the Woodman (1871) was replaced by the Wheatsheaf in 1937, which itself was later replaced by new housing.
Just off High Street in an area known as “pike helve”, the Pier Inn stood next to the “Spot” footbridge over the canal. Originally known as the Fortune of War (1870), it was demolished in the early 1990s. Along Church Road, the Shoulder of Mutton is another pub dating from the mid-1880s, which is reputed to take its name from the shape of the plot of land with its bowling green. Another of William Roberts’ pubs, it still retains an etched glass window with his steam locomotive trade-mark.
On the corner of Lichfield Road is Smithy’s Forge, named after the blacksmiths that once occupied the site. It replaced the former Huntsman and Sportsman public house, and is now a “Sizzling” pub. Further along
Lichfield Road on the corner of Narrow Lane was the Railway Tavern (1850), replaced by housing in 1993. In Lindon Road, we’d find the Wheel Inn, dating from 1887.
Along Wolverhampton Road, the Swan originally dates back to 1834 and was previously known as the White Swan and Red Swan. It was another of William Roberts’ pubs, became a free-house in 2011 and is now a popular award-winning real-ale pub. On the corner of Coppice Side, the Jolly Collier dated from the early 1800s and gave its name to the nearby canal bridge. Popular with canal workers and local miners, it also had a stable block for canal horses, but closed in 1982. Near High Bridge, the Yew Tree Inn was another historic pub, now sadly gone.
Watling Street is an historic route, based on the former Roman road, with several pubs serving the weary travellers. The Anglesey Arms (1855) stood opposite Howdles Lane and was named after local landowner, the Marquess of Anglesey. Formerly part
of a terrace of dwellings known as “Foxes Row” and owned by William Roberts, it was replaced by flats. Landlord Walter Shingler’s son, Ken, was a well-known local boxer.
The Chase Inn dated from 1857 and was next to the railway line, while the Crown (1880) lies at the junction with Chester Road North. The Rising Sun was an historic coaching inn pub dating from 1769, once owned by William Roberts, but extensively damaged by fire in 2017.
Chester Road North is home to the Hussey Arms on the edge of Brownhills Common. Originally dating from the 1850s, it replaced an earlier pub called the Turk’s Head. Named after local landowners of Wyrley Hall, it was the headquarters of Brownhills Albion FC.
On the corner of Castle Street, the Queen’s Head dated from before 1888, but closed in 1966, while Hoofbeats Bar and Kitchen, a former service station, opened in 2019. Other pubs included the Prince of Wales and Welsh Harp, an historic coaching inn near Howdles Lane dating back to 1743, but closed by 1790. Near the junction with White Horse Road was the Lamb Inn, now demolished. In White Horse Road we’d find the White Horse, replacing an older pub opened in 1861, but recently demolished.
At the junction of Hednesford Road and Albutts Road, the Pear Tree Cottage Inn (1851) was demolished in 2012. On the corner of Wilkin
Road, the Olde Wilkin Inn (1871) was known locally as the “Monkey”, and is now a restaurant. Further along Wilkin Road, the Waterside was formerly the local Labour club.
Brownhills is now home to two small craft breweries, Backyard Brewery in Lichfield Road and Beowulf Brewery at Chasewater country park.
But who remembers that famous motor-racing driver, Nigel Mansell, used to race his go-kart around Chasewater!