Ready to Rome?
FREED FROM THE COVID-19, THE ETERNAL CITY ENDURES, SAYS SARAH MARSHALL
SHACKLES OF
THE first European country to suffer the hurt of coronavirus, 18 months ago, Italy was on her knees – today, though, the situation has changed dramatically. Domestic movement is permitted, and international borders are slowly opening, with quarantinefree, long-haul travel corridors set up with the US, Canada, Japan and UAE.
Although Italy still carries an amber status for UK travellers and restrictions for non-essential travel continue to apply in Ireland, it’s a reassuring sign that one of our favourite holiday destinations is on the right path.
When I arrive in Rome, the streets are quieter than usual. Waiters eagerly scan for tourists who never pass by, and staff in designer stores rearrange garments, filling time until they lock up for the day.
Slowly, though, things are changing. “We are starting to hear some foreign voices,” says Francesco Salvo, brand strategy manager for Sina hotels, the longest continuously run family hotel chain in the country, who own the Bernini Bristol in Rome.
Presiding over Piazza Barberini, the elegant 147-year-old property sits in a prime position. Water spouts from the conch shell of a muscular merman at Bernini’s Fontana del Tritone, and the Spanish Steps are only minutes away. Inside, the baroque sentiment is echoed through classic works of art filling the marble-floored corridors.
From the hotel’s rooftop bar, The Flair, I can see the cupola of St Peter’s Basilica, where flocks of starlings wheel at dawn and dusk.
Only recently, people were permitted to dine indoors, but outdoor spaces are still in high demand from locals taking the opportunity to explore their country in peace and quiet.
Francesco, who lives in Trastevere, a bohemian quarter famous for its narrow alleys and lively tavernas, says overpriced tourist bars have also been forced to up their game, improving the quality of food and service. Overall, he believes coronavirus has provided the travel industry with an opportunity to re-evaluate and hoteliers have a
chance to treat guests better and offer more value for money.
Celebrating an emergence from the pandemic, Sina is launching a Diamond Grand Tour encompassing several properties within its portfolio and is planning to renovate the Bernini Bristol, extending the property into a building next door.
“It will take some time,” sighs Francesco. “Coming out of Covid will be like emerging from a World War.”
For now, any visitors to the Eternal City can enjoy the privilege of having after-hours access to the world’s biggest outdoor museum.
During my brief stay, I run up and down the Spanish Steps without crashing into a single selfie stick. At the Trevi Fountain, my only wish as I toss a solitary coin into the water is to never forget the sight of Oceanus and his seahorse chariot in this quiet light.
But without people, Rome feels devastatingly lonely. It was a city built for travellers. All roads, after all, lead this way.