Height of good taste
ZOE FORSEY TAKES A BITE OUT OF A MOUNTAIN OF AMAZING FOOD IN VERBIER
TEMPTING though it is to book a restaurant with a view, there’s also the small matter of actually getting there.
As I was handed a bike helmet at the bottom of a beautiful Swiss mountain and told lunch was waiting for me at the top, I’ve never been so relieved to hear six words. “Don’t worry, it’s definitely an e-bike.”
Riding an electric bike was a first for me but after a wobbly start, I was off. The extra power made parts of the mountain normally reserved for only the fittest of the fit an accessible playground for all.
In a couple of hours I was at the top and tucking into a plate of Swiss rosti (grated potato with cheese and bacon) which is quite possibly the perfect, cheesiest, most carb-laden feast you could wish for after a morning of exercise.
And that dish, served on a tin plate on a picnic bench overlooking the valleys below, was just the start of a delicious week of food in Verbier’s eateries.
While most people know Verbier for its winter sports, the greener, warmer months are also buzzing as adventure-lovers flock to take in the stunning scenery via mountain bikes and walking boots.
The area’s Slow Food Movement is increasingly popular and, with four valleys filled with beautiful produce, it’s easy to see why.
Just down the road in Sarreyer, a village perched on the sunny righthand slope of the Upper Val de Bagnes, locals have come together to bring food history back to life by renovating the traditional woodburning oven and mill.
Plaques dotted around the village lead you through the breadmaking process. From the work in the fields to the production of the flour. As well as teaching tourists about the village’s history, the oven has become the centre of the community once again, hosting pizza nights and other cooking parties.
Meanwhile the mill is used to grind flour and to make delicious fresh apple juice using three types of apples – but the exact quantities are kept under lock and key as it is the village’s own secret recipe.
The place is famous for its wine but there is no shortage of locally brewed beer, including the six lagers, ales and stouts made at the Vie Montagne restaurant and micro-brewery.
It’s overseen by a small team who are passionate about hops, and their skill and knowledge shines through as they chat to eager customers.
But the foodie highlight of the trip for me was our visit to Le Crock No Name, Verbier’s first speakeasy restaurant. Hidden behind a bookcase, this is the place to enjoy an exquisite meal served in an intimate and relaxed setting.
On offer is a five-course set menu which changes every week, but you don’t find out what you’re going to be tucking into until the chef, Adam Bateman, personally introduces each dish at the table.
We were treated to sheep curd and walnut tartlet garnished with flowers from the valleys, pea and mint gazpacho, stone bass tartar, torched Val d’Herens beef fillet with a forest pine mash, a honey pudding and one of the creamiest cheese boards I’ve been lucky enough to demolish.
All the ingredients are local and Adam picks all the flowers and herbs from the valleys himself during walks with his new puppy, Topi.
He ends every meal with a moving tribute to his talented chocolatier friend, fellow Brit Jamie Clark, who died in an avalanche in January. Since losing his pal, Adam has been trying to perfect his old chocolate recipes so people can still enjoy his delicious creations.
All of Verbier’s culinary offerings will leave you energy to burn, but luckily there are many ways to get moving, If anything, there is too much on offer.
The Verbier Infinite Playground (VIP) Pass gives visitors free entry or discounts on more than 25 of the town’s top activities and attractions, and you’ll struggle to fit everything in.
On offer to anyone staying at least one night in the region – I stayed at the recently refurbished four-star Hotel de Verbier – and paying the tourist tax of £1.20 per night, it also gives you
unlimited access to the mountain lifts and free trips on the bus.
But if you’re after something a bit more relaxed you can try a cookery class, join a mountain yoga class, swim or learn about the area’s history on a guided tour.
You can even hunt for lunch on a gourmet wild plant foraging trip.
During the two-hour walk, our guide Cherries shared some of her extensive knowledge of the valley’s plants, flowers and herbs, with the chance of tasting the unexpected flavours of some of the blossoms covering the hilltops.
Once you’ve collected a bag full of colourful treats, it’s time to sit down and enjoy the fruits of your labour with a chocolate fondue, dipping your edible flowers in the hot and gooey mess in Cafe Mont Fort in the village of Sarreyer.
With so much going on it’s easy to see why people flock to Verbier out of the ski season.
But you might need more than one trip if you want to try a taste of everything on offer.