The wild, wild west
BY THE WILD BEAUTY AND
A SIGN bearing a resplendent red dragon with the words ‘Welcome to Wales’ beneath it stands proudly at the roadside after crossing the Prince of Wales bridge on the M4.
Whizzing past it excitedly, we couldn’t wait to take in the green, green grass, rugged coast and epic landscapes on our family weekend over the border.
A quick look at the satnav, however, showed our destination was almost three hours away. But what you get along the winding route that leads to the seaside village of Broad Haven in Pembrokeshire is spectacular coastal views, rolling hills and wide open spaces to enjoy as you go. It’s like you’ve started your holiday before you’re even there.
Visiting Wales in November, I had prepared for grey skies, rain showers and cutting winds, but the sun shone brightly and the air was crisp. I kicked myself for not bringing my sunglasses.
Our home for the weekend was Lions Head, a chic new-build in a cul-de-sac on a hill overlooking the dramatic Broad Haven beach. One of 13 houses in the development, the five-star property – it sleeps eight in four bedrooms, two of them ensuite – is perfect for a fab family getaway.
Lions Head really has the wowfactor. Immaculately kept, it has bright modern furniture, parquet flooring, huge comfy beds and beautiful coastal views from the large picture windows. Mod cons include electric blinds and it is equipped to the highest standard, so much so that my sister-in-law declared she wanted the same kitchen set-up in her home.
The lower ground floor of the three-storey home is a cosy space for two with an en-suite double room and living space, plus access to the garden and hot tub, which we used daily (extra £100 charge for using it out of season).
The location is spot on too – it’s just a short walk down the hill into the quaint little village and on to that cracker of a beach.
When the tide is out, the vast sandy stretch, bookended by towering cliffs, is perfect for paddling and building sandcastles. It’s also superb for surfing and windsurfing and Broad Haven surf shop has all you need for riding the waves. The village is set along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path which stretches 186 miles from St Dogmaels in the north to Amroth in the south and offers walkers picturesque views whatever the season.
For a shorter walk, you can stroll around the headland to The Settlands sandy bay, but keep an eye on the tide if you want to walk back the same way!
In fact, there are many pretty beaches, large and small, along this stretch of coastline, including Little Haven, Druidston, Nolton Haven and Newgale, all in the space of a few miles.
Our holiday home takes its name from Lion Rock, a huge monolith that can be seen from the back windows. Clambering on rocks and exploring coastal crevices is something I love doing at the seaside and my son and I headed to Lion Rock for a selfie.
Broad Haven has some great food options. At the Galleon Inn you get hearty pub grub and sea views. At
Sunshine Italian you get those views with pizza or coffee and cake.
Take in the sea air with a takeaway from the excellent Off The Hook fish and chip shop. Try giant stacked burgers at Sand & Stone Kitchen or great fish and seafood at Ocean Café Bar & Restaurant.
Wales’ wild west coast is famous for its sightseeing boat trips and Skomer Island, just down the coast, is home to more than 42,500 puffins, 350,000 breeding pairs of manx shearwaters, guillemots, razorbills and kittiwakes. Catch a boat from Martin’s Haven with Pembrokeshire
Islands Boat Trips to Skomer from £20 to see the island from the water or from £24 to land and go exploring.
St Davids, near the most westerly point of Wales, is a short drive away and home to a spectacular cathedral. Sitting in a lush valley of Britain’s smallest city – population around 1,600 – it has a famously sloping floor, with the east and west ends differing in height by about 13ft.
The high street here is buzzing with independent shops, bespoke food outlets and clothing stores. Do visit St Davids Gin & Kitchen, if this trendy tipple is your thing – the seaweed Welsh dry gin is yummy. Plus, the menu is deliciously Welsh, with seafood platters featuring lobster from Solva, Pembrokeshire rib-eye steak and local cheeses.
Heading east, Solva Harbour is a handsome stop-off. At high tide, it’s a slither of sand and the boats bob in the water. At low tide, it’s dry, uncovering an expanse of sand you can stroll out on. The Gribin headland guards the entrance to the harbour and there are magnificent views across St Brides Bay from the top.
Usually the journey home from a great holiday makes you a bit sad, but the drive back along those dramatic south Wales roads only made me want to come back sooner.