That’s the Spirit! A transformation in Melbourne as the former Blue Bell Inn is revived
Is impressed by the efforts made to bring a Melbourne pub back from the doldrums
IN December, I wrote about the transformation of the Bell & Harp pub at Little Eaton, saying that if you had not been in for a while, you might not believe your eyes when you saw the change.
Last week, I found a transformation to match it, at the former Blue Bell Inn in Melbourne, which is now setting out on a new life as the Spirit Vaults.
I think the kindest word to describe what the
Blue Bell had become was “tired.” Shardlow Brewery’s only pub, it is a historic building on three floors on Church Street, dating from the 18th century but it had lacked TLC for a good while.
Ron Morgan, the founder of Shardlow Brewery, died eight years ago and, by the family’s own admission, the business had drifted somewhat without him at the helm.
Now, however, Ron’s grandsons, Matt and Simon, have revived both pub and brewery in quite brilliant fashion.
It turns out that the name Spirit Vaults has not been plucked out of thin air. It was the original name of the premises before it became the Blue Bell. It sold predominantly spirits at a time when it was hard to get a licence for a straightforward pub.
In terms of the business, the pub and the brewery, the Morgans have basically started again.
The old brewery down by the canal at Shardlow has been closed and a smaller, shiny new one has been installed at the back of the pub, bearing the name Morgan Brewmasters on the door. It’s glassfronted so customers can see the pub’s beer being brewed and it is Simon who is doing the brewing.
Far and away the most popular of Shardlow’s beers was Reverend Eaton, their 4.5% traditional bitter, and, renamed simply Reverend, it remains on a simple product list which also includes Spirit Dark and Spirit Gold – I found all three beers to be excellent, straightforward brews. It’s also a pub that is missing standard big-name lagers and keg beers – this is a place in which to try an alternative and there are plenty of alternatives to go at.
However, it’s the work on the pub that is the real eyeopener. As I started off by suggesting, you might not recognise it if you knew the old pub, although the basic premise of a room either side of a central bar remains.
Many original features have been revealed or restored, with lots of beams on view and the upstairs has been brought back into use with a couple of plush letting rooms.
The balance of traditional and modern, so hard to get right, has been achieved perfectly, to my eyes. The branding touches are brilliant, the Spirit Vaults logo popping up all over the place, from the froth on top of a coffee to the coasters on the tables, in the toilets, you name it.
Matt, who is managing the pub for now, says they did initially bring in interior design consultants but were not convinced by what they were hearing, so they made it up themselves as they went along, not without hiccups – but the results are excellent.
“For a while after my grandad passed away, the family didn’t have times to put into the business,” he says.
“With the pub being in this location, it was a shame that it was just left as it was.
“It was my idea to revive it like this and I might have regretted it a couple of times during the restoration. We knew the building would present challenges – it dates back to 1736.”
As can so often be the case, the more centuries of decor was peeled back, the more problems presented themselves but, once started, there was nothing for it but to plough on.
“We didn’t rush it but eventually we said, right we need to be open now, so we’re still ironing a few things out,” says Matt.
“I am the interim manager for now, as it’s been my baby for two years.”
By August bank holiday weekend, they were ready for a quiet opening and there is no doubt that the project has been well received in Melbourne, a small town which is not exactly teeming with great pubs.
“It’s been good, we didn’t know what to expect,” says Matt.
“The weekdays have been steady and the weekends very busy – sadly, we have had to turn people away on a Saturday night because we were full.”
That, of course, has more to do with current restrictions than with the space in the pub, which retains a pleasant patio at the side, a lovely spot in summer.
“People’s feedback is the most satisfying part of this,” says Matt.
Food is a step down the line but, for now, Melbourne has one of its most historic pubs back and in fine fettle.
Give it a look and be prepared to be pleasantly surprised.