Spice up your life...
RICHARD BACHE GETS IMMERSED IN THE AMAZING FLAVOURS OF GRENADA
HOLIDAYMAKERS in search of some heat will certainly find it in abundance in Grenada – and it’s not just from the Caribbean sun. Spice is so integral to life on the island that nutmeg is proudly portrayed on the nation’s flag.
Golden rays and the odd spot of what one local charmingly described to me as “liquid sunshine” – otherwise known as rain – make it one of the most fertile places on the planet.
The rich volcanic soils of this small mountainous island are perfect for growing a bewildering number of crops.
But nutmeg is undoubtedly king in a country that last year was named world culinary capital by the World Food Travel Association, and it’s used to spice up all sorts of tantalising treats.
Slurping nutmeg ice-cream is pure heaven while strolling along its famous Grand Anse Beach – a mile-and-a-half curve of soft white sand on its south-west coast.
Try it on your morning tania log, a creamy concoction similar to porridge. It even features in the island’s Black Gold rum.
Pay a visit to the spice market, in vibrant capital St George’s, to pick up supplies. The fragrance of these fresh spices is a world removed from those lurking in your cupboard back home.
Better still is a trip to the spice garden at De La Grenade in St Paul’s parish.
Even the pathway through it is made of discarded nutmeg shells, every step creating a fresh aroma as the shells crack beneath your feet.
Hundreds of varieties are grown here from the ubiquitous nutmeg, turmeric and cinnamon to the more exotic soursop, shado beni and sorrel. During my week on Grenada I lost count of how many times I’m told how a certain plant will make me strong, is nature’s Viagra or will aid weight loss.
Among the islanders to espouse the health benefits of herbs is Tamika Phillip, founder of the Garden of Bayleaf tea rooms, set in a converted nutmeg weighing station in the village of Vincennes.
Listening to her over a pot of herbal tea served in vintage mismatched crockery, she explains the science behind them. For instance, the bay leaves that infuse my tea are a major ingredient in aspirin, with German pharmaceutical giants among the biggest buyers.
One of the other main crops Grenada is better at growing than almost anywhere else is cocoa.
The Belmont Estate is one of the Caribbean’s finest agri-tourism experiences and the perfect spot to learn all about chocolate. The cocoa is grown among other trees, including nutmeg – a process known as inter-cropping.
Listening to our guide describe how the intermingling of the roots of different trees impacts the flavour of the cocoa is akin to being transported to Bordeaux and being told about terroir by a wine-maker.
On a tour I learn about the chocolate-making process from bean to bar, and get the chance to “dance the beans” – walking over them as they dry to smooth and polish them.
The chocolate industry has spawned an annual week-long festival in May. It was the brainchild of Mexican-born Magdalena Fielden who, with her husband Russ, owns the award-winning True Blue Bay Resort, where I spent part of my trip.
At this cared-for resort, they’ve created a six-course chocolate menu for its Dodgy Dock restaurant, a dining deck set over the water. The accompanying cocoa bean cocktail provided an indulgent kick-start to proceedings. Even the mashed potato contained cocoa butter.
The vibe here is quirky, informal and fun. You can stay in one of their eco-friendly Cocoa Pod rooms, by two new swimming pools. It also has a well-regarded dive centre, a spa and offers yoga sessions by the bay.
If, however, you’re after a luxurious Caribbean classic, book into the five-star Calabash Hotel, part of the upscale Relais and Chateaux group. Its 30 suites nestle within eight acres of lush gardens at the hotel set on tranquil Lance Aux Epines Beach overlooking yacht-speckled Prickly Bay. British-owner Leo Garbutt stumbled into
buying it when he came to Grenada in 1985 with the intention of buying a rum distillery. That deal fell through and the hotel has become known as one of the best in the Caribbean.
While the location is exquisite, the food elevates the Calabash to superstar status. At its Rhodes Restaurant – it was run by the late Gary Rhodes – I enjoyed a superb sixcourse tasting menu, infused with the spices of the island, and desserts made with ingredients from an organic cocoa plantation. Savouring a Grenadian breakfast of saltfish, coconut bake and plantain at its waterfront Beach Club restaurant was my favourite morning on the island.
The urge to soak up the glorious Caribbean sunshine poolside or on the beaches is almost irresistible. But for those who either want to see the sights or build up an appetite for the next meal, Grenada offers plenty of choices.
Chief among them is the Molinere Beauséjour underwater
sculpture park where guides will happily show you around dozens of statues on the sea bed.
Swim by Christ the Redeemer or – my personal favourite – the Lost Correspondent, a statue of a reporter working at his typewriter, the desk covered with newspaper cuttings.
You don’t have to hit the beach for a swim on Grenada though. The powerful Annandale Falls, a short drive from St George’s, is a stunning spot for a dip, surrounded by tropical vegetation.
A higher-octane option is river tubing through the rapids of the Balthazar River, which is great fun among yet more beautiful scenery.
Back on dry land, Grenada offers brilliant hiking, particularly in the unspoilt Grand Etang rainforest.
After all that activity, you’ll need another of Grenada’s finest products – rum. Much of what is distilled here is the lethal overproof white rum, which can clock in at a steep 150 proof (75% abv).
On a visit to Grenada Distillers, which makes the Clarke’s Court range, it is possible to sample a variety of (slightly) less potent rums, including the flagship nutmeg-tinged Black Gold. After some painstaking research I can report that it tastes just as good under a Caribbean sun as it does on a cold night back in Britain.
When you have discovered your perfect rum cocktail, you might want to indulge in that other most Caribbean of pastimes – liming.
To lime is the act – indeed, art – of doing very little, while shooting the breeze under the hot sun with friends over a drink or two. Cheers.