Notes on North Wales... what Anne Lister found on her 1822 tour of the region

SATURDAY, JULY 13, 1822

Journey to Llangollen “When Castle Dinas Bran came into sight, we were satisfied of the beauties of the valley but the sun was setting on the castle, and so dazzled our eyes we could scarce look that way.

On the locals

“There is a public road close to the house, thro’ the grounds, and along this we passed and repassed... standing to look at the house (cottage) which is really very pretty – a great many of the people touched their hats to us on passing and we are much struck with their universal civility.”

SUNDAY, JULY 14

Dinas Bran

“After reading Bingley’s description and that ascending Dinas Bran might be a substitute to those who had not ascended Snowdon. I was disappointed we could not see near to the end of the Vale of Llangollen – nor distinguish anything of Vale [sic] Crucis Abbey – the hills immediately around bounded our view very narrowly – the remains are very small.”

From Llangollen to Corwen

“Very fine drive from Llangollen to Corwen, the Dee within a short distance on our right all the way – the valley narrow the hills on each side bold and beautiful and picturesque – this road like a bowling green – one of the best I ever travelled.”

On roadworks “Government have lately taken this road (the whole way for London to Holyhead) into their hands, and tho’ the tolls are much heavier thereto vast improvements have been made in the road and are going on in different parts of the line of it.”

MONDAY, JULY 15

On climbing Snowdon “Began the ascent on foot at 3, & gained the highest point of the highest summit Wydfa [sic] (a distance of 5 miles) in 3 40/60 hours – we had hoped to see the sun set but this was prevented by intervening clouds. We saw however a magnificent prospect – seven lakes immediately among the Snowdonian mountains – the Menai Straights – the bays of Cardigan & Caemawr, Anglesea. The ascent was much easier than I expected – no danger attending it...brought us up to the ridge, as it were, on which stands Wydfa – the first view is most striking and we thought ourselves well repaid for our trouble.

TUESDAY, JULY 16

Llanberis

“I walked to Dolbadarn castle & to the waterfall of Conant Mawr. 2 20/60 hours walking to where the gig left us yesterday that is 4 long miles along the pass of Llanberis, so narrow as to seem almost like a fissure in the mountains.”

Llanrwst

“Walked down to see the Rhaidr y Wennol waterfall – turned over the curved bridge at Bettws (it is built on rocks in the river) and got to Llanrwst. Beautiful drive all the way – the town busy & full of people it being market day – walked about, saw the church and got 2 men to shake the bridge for us. Walked down almost to Gwydir Castle – stopt at the Eagles Inn – seemingly a pretty good one, where one might sleep comfortably.”

WEDNESDAY, JULY 17

Conwy Castle

“THE castle is a most beautiful & surprisingly perfect remain all things considered – but we have seen it to great disadvantage in consequence of the rain could not see interior of the keep tower.”

Conwy town

“Conway seems a poor sort of town of 2 or 3 streets. We have been comfortable here – good, clean beds, tho’ very small rooms – no window – curtains, no wash-stand – the pitcher & basin on the toilet table – good breakfast & great attention. The people