Ford Grand C-MAX 2.0 Duratorq TDCI

Featuring the Delphi DCM 3.5 V4 management system.

Introduced in 2003, Ford’s fiveseater C-MAX (as it was known at that time) shared its platform with the second-generation Focus and the Mazda Premacy. It proved to be popular with family car buyers, providing generous luggage space and great versatility in terms of different passenger and load-carrying options. For those in need of seven seats, the Grand C-MAX was available within the samesized bodyshell. Facelifted versions (with ‘Focus’ no longer part of the model designation) arrived on the market in 2007, with revised styling that made the vehicle’s appearance similar to that that of other Fords of the time.

The heavily revised second-generation C-MAX models, built on Ford’s new C-segment platform, were introduced in October 2010, with the five-seater C-MAX featuring ‘normal’ side doors (ie, all hinged at their forward edges), whereas the new versions of the now longer wheelbase seven-seater Grand C-MAX incorporated sliding rear side doors with handles at their forward ends.

Engine options for the C-MAX matched those of contemporary Focus models, with a range of petrol and diesel units on offer. These include Ford/ PSA Peugeot-citroën Duratorq TDCI 2.0-litre (1997cc) motors. Our guinea pig car for this feature is a secondgeneration Grand C-MAX 2.0 Duratorq TDCI, registered in May 2011. The engine code for this car is DW10 and it incorporates a Delphi DCM 3.5 V4 management system. Our guide to this model’s engine and its system is Edward Haggar, master technician with Kwik Fit.

Preparation

Engine access on this C-MAX is not that easy due to its positioning and the type of covers fitted, but the good news is that, in general, the power unit has proved to be pretty reliable.

Rather than adhering to the official recommended service/filter renewal

change periods, our advice is to renew the engine oil and filter, also the fuel and air filters, far more frequently (as outlined in our Useful Preparation Data).

Note that a cover is fitted immediately above the diesel fuel filter, making it difficult to remove and refit the filter. When changing the fuel filter on this engine, it is worth filling the new filter with fresh diesel fuel to aid rapid starting. This avoids the need for prolonged engine cranking, helping to avoid straining the starter motor and high-pressure fuel pump, thereby extending their lives. In addition, there are a number of priming kits available which can be connected inline.

EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION (EGR) SYSTEM PROBLEMS

Symptoms of our first fault can include smoking when the engine is under power, illumination of the engine management system warning lamp and extended cranking during cold start conditions. A diagnostic check will possibly show a code relating to ‘EGR circuit, efficiency’. As the EGR valve unit is buried at the rear of the engine, simply removing and cleaning it isn’t a five-minute job, so live data can be very handy in these circumstances. With key on, engine off, look at the live data as a percentage for EGR valve – the reading should be around 15% or less, but it’s possible that it will read a lot more. Another good test is to use the diagnostic equipment to go into ‘Function Tests’ with a running engine and operate the EGR valve; a difference in engine tone should be clearly evident.

If you are going down the cleaning route, a quality cleaner is required. Removing the air filter and battery helps in terms of getting to the assembly. Alternatively, if you’re fitting a new valve, it’s worth carrying out an adaption via the scanner. New valves can be obtained from aftermarket sources.

AILING DIESEL PARTICULATE FILTER (DPF) SENSOR

When our next fault is present, the vehicle may be using more fuel than usual. It may also be emitting a ‘fumey’ smell and expel smoke from the exhaust when driving. In addition, the engine management warning light and oil service light might be illuminated. A diagnostic check will show codes referring to the DPF soot level and pressure sensor.

The ECU relies on the pressure sensor signal to see when the soot levels are high and then decides to trigger ‘regeneration’. If the sensor fails it can tell the ECU that the pressure is high when it’s not, so the vehicle keeps regenerating. If this fault is left and not fixed, it’s possible that it will damage the filter itself.

The first check should be to look at the live data – with key on, engine off – and observe DPF pressure; a nominal figure should be seen. Generally, when the sensors fail, the reading will jump around and a little tap on the sensor can cause it to jump.

At the sensor, remove the pipes and check to ensure that they are clear/ unobstructed – blockages here can cause these symptoms. Be aware that a hole in the pipe can affect system operation similarly. A good test of the sensor is to attach a pressure gauge pump to it and – with key on, engine off – look at the live data; it should be the same as the gauge reading.

The sensor is secured with a clip and nut. A good quality sensor is recommended and the price is usually reasonable. Some cheap sensors available on the internet are known to be worse than the faulty original unit!

BATTERY MALFUNCTIONS

You might experience excessive engine cranking when cold, plus illumination of the management warning lamp, and a diagnostic check will show voltage codes on all ECUS.

The first check should be testing the battery. For some reason, most of the Ford range suffers from such problems more often than vehicles from other manufacturers. A plastic cover has to

be removed to get to the battery, and if battery replacement is required then the air filter and housing have to come off, too. The correct ‘enhanced flooded’ type battery has to be fitted (these superior performance units were originally developed to cope with vehicles incorporating stop/start systems). On late-model Fords, the batteries are coded to the car; most diagnostic tools can carry out this operation.

DODGY NEGATIVE BATTERY LEAD INCORPORATING JUMP START CONNECTION POST

Symptoms for this problem are a vehicle that doesn’t start, and when the engine is trying to crank, the dash lights flicker. You might find that moving/wiggling the negative wire will fix the trouble.

The root cause of the problem is actually in the threaded part of the assembly that is screwed to the vehicle’s structure on the left-hand side of the engine bay. A simple volt drop test can diagnose this quickly.

Attach a voltmeter’s positive lead to the battery’s negative post and the negative lead to the negative (earth) point/post on the vehicle. A reading of 0.5 volts (indicating voltage drop) or less is what you are looking for; anything much above this shows high resistance. A simple removal and cleaning operation usually solves this, but if you want to fit a new lead they are available from Ford dealers. A good coating of contact cleaner can help prevent this reoccurring.