UNDER THE BONNET

1 CHANGE AIR FILTER

First pull off the main engine cover, then disconnect the sensor plug on the pipework by the side of the filter box, then undo the four 7mm cover bolts. Lift off the cover and remove the circular element. Make sure you clean out the inside of the box with an old cloth before putting in the new element.

4 FIT NEW FILTER

With the plastic oil filter mounting free, pull out the old element and dispose of it. Wipe away any old oil from the casing and fit the new element. Make sure you discard the old rubber sealing ring from the thread and fit the new one that should come with the fresh element. Refit and torque it to 25Nm.

7 CHECK BATTERY

The battery is under a plastic cover – the cover just lifts out. Underneath, make sure the battery is securely clamped and its terminals are tight. Give them a coating of grease. If there are inspection holes, ensure the acid level is over the plates inside. Top up with distilled water if required.

2 OIL FILTER ACCESS

We’re not finished with the air filter yet. The intake pipework needs to be removed to get at the oil filter, situated beneath it. You should have already disconnected the sensor wiring, so you now need to undo the two Jubilee clips, then pull out that section of piping. Underneath, you’ll find the oil filter.

5 CHECK COOLANT

The marks for ‘Minimum’ and ‘Maximum’ on the coolant expansion tank are indicated on the outside of the transparent casing. However, we also recommend removing the cap and using a hydrometer to check the strength of the coolant to ensure it’s still of adequate strength.

8 ACCESS FUEL FILTER

The fuel filter sits next to the battery. Initially, you’ll need to remove the metal bracket at the top, which is held in place by three 8mm bolts, then lift the bracket away. Now you’ll need to unclip the wiring at the top – push in the tabs using a small screwdriver and undo the bolts on top of the filter housing.

3 CHANGE OIL FILTER

Access still isn’t that great as there’s another pipe in the way, but there should be enough room to get in a wrench to undo the filter, which has a 27mm nut set into its top. Be prepared for splatter when you withdraw it – surrounding the area with paper towels or old rags will minimise mess.

6 CHECK BRAKE FLUID

The filler hole for the brake/clutch fluid reservoir sprouts from under the bulkhead, so you’ll probably need a small torch to make sure the fluid inside is where it should be. It’s also a wise precaution to use an electronic fluid checker to make sure that not too much water has been absorbed by the DOT4 fluid.

9 REMOVE FUEL FILTER

You’re not finished yet… There’s a small, almost inconspicuous white clip that holds the pipework in place on the back of the filter. This needs to be removed and safely put somewhere that it won’t get lost. Now you can pull the filter housing away from the engine and take it to a work bench.

10 DRAIN FUEL FILTER

Away from the car, drain the diesel inside the filter into a receptacle by loosening the drain screw on the bottom of the container. Once all the fuel has gone, tighten up the screw again. When you put it back on the car, it’s a good idea to prime it with fresh diesel or, better still, diesel cleaning additive.

13 CHECK DRIVEBELT

You can’t see much of the auxiliary drivebelt in the engine bay because of components in the way, but examine it as closely as possible. Look for signs of fraying, tearing or cracking. If you can turn the belt any more than about a quarter- to half-a-turn at the centre point between pulleys, tightening up is required.

16 DRAIN ENGINE OIL

You’ll need a 21mm socket to undo the sump plug, which should be done with the oil warm but not hot, so it drains easily. Have a container underneath capable of holding four litres of old oil. Replace the copper washer on the plug to prevent leaks.

11 CHANGE FUEL FILTER

There are three bolts on the top of the filter, which will need to be removed using a T15 Torx socket, before the top can be lifted off the old filter. Discard the old one and fit the replacement, making sure the triangular sealing ring is correctly in place on its top. Clean the exterior with cloth or a spray...

14 CHECK UNDERBODY

Examine the underneath of the vehicle for corrosion or damage, although it’s unlikely on a vehicle this young. The main areas to focus on are the exhaust, looking for rot or blowing, and its mountings, making sure they’re secure. Also check any exposed metal brake and fuel lines for rust and leaks.

17 REFILL ENGINE OIL

With the oil fully drained, refill the engine with fresh stuff. Use 5W-30 fully-synthetic to Ford spec. You’ll need about four litres or so; put in about three litres, then start the engine briefly to circulate it, then top up to the correct amount, referring to the dipstick.

12 PUT FILTER BACK

...before you put it back in the engine bay. Take care when reassembling everything, as there’s a lot to remember – most importantly the white clip for the rear pipework, which is fiddly and easily dropped. Make sure everything is secure and properly connected before replacing the top bracket.

15 UNDO UNDERBODY COVER

Unfortunately, before the oil can be drained, you need to remove the underbody cover. Ford hasn’t made it easy – there are 11 T30 bolts that need to be undone, assuming they’re all there and some haven’t been replaced with cable ties. Be careful when you drop the panel, as it’s quite cumbersome.

18 CHECK GEARBOX FLUID

The gearbox fluid check plug is on the side of the gearbox casing and easily accessible. The plug is removed using an 8mm Allen key. If fluid doesn’t drip out when you remove the plug, poke in a finger or cable tie to verify that oil is up to the neck of the aperture.

19 LOCATE WHEELNUT TOOL

Like most cars fitted with alloy wheels, there are locking wheelnuts, one to each wheel. If you haven’t owned the car from new, make sure you know where the tool to unlock them is (hopefully it’s been passed on), otherwise you won’t be able to service the brakes. Usual locations are with the spare wheel or toolkit.

22 UNDO BRAKE CALIPERS

Use a wire brush to clean the outside of the brakes. You’ll then need to remove the pad spring retaining clip with pliers or a flatblade screwdriver – take care in case it flies off somewhere. Use a 7mm Allen key to undo the slider bolts on the rear of the caliper and pull them out.

25 EXAMINE SUSPENSION

With the wheel out of the way, examine the suspension components within the wheelarch. The rear road springs are usually more heavy duty than those at the front, but also tend to take more of a pounding, so examine them carefully, as well as looking for any signs of brake fluid leaks and other damage.

20 CHECK WHEELS & TYRES

Check all wheels for racking, kerbing, bulging or foreign objects stuck in the tyres. In addition, ensure there is at least 2mm of tread left evenly across the tyres. Try to rock the wheels top to bottom to check for suspension play. Then spin them and listen for the low drone of a worn bearing.

23 CLEAN BRAKE PADS

Pull the caliper away – the pads come with it, as you lift it off. If there’s adequate friction material (at least 3mm) left and free of grease or oil, then the pads can be reused. Clean them by rubbing the fronts on some abrasive paper. Also apply some cooper grease to rear surfaces and mounting lugs.

26 DISMANTLE DRUM BRAKES

There’s an old fashioned drum brake set-up at the rear instead of discs. With the handbrake off, the drum should just pull away from the hub – there’s nothing else to undo, although be prepared for it to be a little tight; it may need to be levered off using a flat-blade screwdriver.

21 CHECK STEERING

Once the wheels are off, scrutinise the various suspension and steering components before turning attention to the brakes. Areas to investigate include the CV boots – making sure there are no tears. Look for perished rubber bushes, broken road springs and any fluid leaks from brake lines.

24 FURTHER CLEAN BRAKES

Before you put the pads and caliper back in place, use the wire brush to further clean the brake disc area. Any stubborn compacted dust can be scraped off using a screwdriver to help shift it. Use some proprietary brake spray cleaner, too. Turn the rim of the disc against a screwdriver to scrape off any loose rust.

27 CLEAN DRUM BRAKES

You can use a wire brush to clean the rear brakes, although be more gentle than you were with the front ones, as drum brakes have more delicate components. Use a proprietary brake spray cleaner to complete the job. The shoes can be cleaned in situ by rubbing them up and down with abrasive paper.