Citroën C2 clutch change
1 Under the bonnet, it’s impossible to see the gearbox from above. The intake trunking, air filter assembly and battery (remove this first, along with its tray) have to come out, but this is time-consuming rather than difficult. 2 Release the clips securing the air filter trunking. Use a flatblade screwdriver blade or similar to carefully push in the yellow plastic release catch (as shown) to separate the rear end of the valve cover hose, enabling this to be detached.
3 The air filter assembly can be extracted from the left-hand end of the engine compartment once all fasteners have been released and all hoses detached. Lift it away with care, in case there are any hidden attachments you may have missed.
4 There are three connector blocks joining the car’s wiring loom to the main ECU – treat these with extreme care. Employing a pointed implement, gently push in the release catches to enable each clip to be released.
5 At the rear of the engine bay, detach the cables from the auxiliary ECU serving the Abs/power steering. First, carefully use a pointed implement to ease out the securing ‘R’ clip for the main connector block assembly. Store the clip safely.
6 Again using a pointed or hooked implement, slide out the red locking retainer for the auxiliary ECU’S connector block, thus enabling it to be separated from the ECU. Take care not to strain any wiring or connectors.
7 Take out the two bolts (10mm spanner size) securing the battery tray and lift it out, complete with the car’s main ECU. While it is out of the car, store the ECU very carefully, ensuring that it doesn’t get knocked or subjected to moisture, etc. 8 Now things look clearer in the vicinity of the gearbox; this is a general view of the unit from above. At this stage the reverse lamp switch wiring and earth strap still need to be detached. Avoid straining any of the electrical wiring/connector assemblies. 9 Use a forked tool to carefully prise off the two gearchange rods from their respective operating rods on the gearbox. Treat all such components with respect so that they do not become damaged in the process of removal. 10 With care, use a pointed implement to release the catch securing the two halves of the connector block assembly serving the reversing lamp switch wiring, and separate the plug/socket components. 11 The earth strap, bolted to the top of the gearbox, can now be released (13mm socket spanner) and detached. It is vitally important to make a note to reconnect this earth strap during reassembly. 12 Next to be released are the bellhousing bolts (13mm socket), including the two long ones at the top. Always leave at least two safety bolts in place so the gearbox can’t separate from the engine until you are ready.
13 With the car raised and securely supported, take off the front wheels, then release and remove the hub nuts (30mm socket). Later, the driveshafts can be tapped and eased inwards through the hubs and then outwards, away from the transmission.
14 Unbolt/remove the cross-car link bar (held by two E14 Torx bolts) running across the vehicle beneath the transmission. This bar’s removal allows lowering of the gearbox in due course. Now drain the transmission oil (8mm square tool).
15 Each lower balljoint must be separated from the base of the hub assembly. Method 1: apply penetrating oil, then release/remove the through-bolt securing the ball pin to the hub (17mm bolt head at front; 17mm nut at rear).
16 Use a separator tool to carefully part the ball pin from the base of the hub assembly; note that the balljoint gaiter can be damaged in the process. Method 2: unbolt the balljoint from the lower suspension arm, allowing the hub base to move outwards.
17 The lower end of the suspension leg assembly can now be gently guided outwards and the driveshaft carefully tapped inwards, through the hub assembly. The driveshaft is now free at its outer end. 18 The driveshaft can now be gently extricated from the transmission with the aid of a long bar. Make sure the bar doesn’t slip during this operation, potentially trapping your hand or hitting you in the face. 19 Having dealt with one side, similar operations are undertaken on the opposite side. Note the stout wood block used to keep the lower end of the hub assembly clear of the driveshaft during extraction. 20 From under the vehicle, take out the bolt (15mm socket spanner) securing the forward end of the engine/gearbox steady bar assembly, effectively separating the steady bar from the bell housing mounted bracket. 21 Now remove the bolt (15mm socket spanner) holding the rear end of the steady bar to the bracket built into the car’s underbody structure, and withdraw the steady bar. Check its condition and renew it if it shows signs of significant deterioration. 22 Next, unbolt (18mm socket spanner) the steady rod assembly’s forward mounting bracket from the bellhousing. This helps to clear the way for further operations around the gearbox and bellhousing.
23 The bolts (13mm) around the lower part of the bellhousing that secure it to the engine can now be released and extracted, leaving two diametrically-opposite bolts in place as a safety measure (in case the gearbox drops prematurely).
24 There’s another bracket to detach from under the car, which secures the exhaust system to the gearbox (7mm Allen key). However, on this C2, the bracket had clearly been broken for a long time – a replacement was sourced.
25 Very difficult to see or to reach is the rearmost securing bolt (13mm) for the starter motor, which is accessed from underneath the vehicle. Fortunately, having worked on C2s in the past, we were ready and waiting for this little character!
Deep down behind the gearbox are two bolts (13mm) securing the gearchange bracket assembly to the rear of the transmission (plus another reached from above), as well as bolts (13mm) securing the clutch slave cylinder.