UNDER THE VEHICLE – FRONT

13 CHECK UNDERBODY

Underneath the car, check for rust or damage. Be on the lookout for any exposed metal brake and fuel lines, as well as the condition and security of the exhaust system. As can be seen here, there’s a slight blow around the exhaust joint and the whole area is looking a little weak.

16 REMOVE BRAKE CALIPERS

Before anything else, clean the outside of the brakes with a wire brush. On the back of each caliper are two bolts that need undoing using a 13mm socket or spanner, holding the inner slider with a 15mm spanner while you do so. Once both bolts are off, you can pull off the caliper.

14 CHECK WHEELS & TYRES

Make sure the tyres are road legal, with adequate tread – use a depth gauge if available – and look for any cracking, kerbing or bulging. With the handbrake off, rock the wheels top to bottom – significant play points to suspension problems. Finally, spin the wheels. A drone suggests a worn wheel bearing.

17 FURTHER CLEAN BRAKES

The pads should stay in place after the caliper has been pulled away. Remove them, then further clean things up using a wire brush and proprietary brake cleaner. Use a screwdriver to scrape out any stubborn areas of compacted dust, such as the points where the pads mount around the disc.

15 CHECK SUSPENSION

Once the wheels are out of the way, check the suspension and steering components. Keep an eye out for any perishing of rubber bushes plus tears or gaps in the CV boots on the front wheels. Also inspect for broken road springs or leaking dampers and brake lines.

18 CLEAN UP PADS

Check if the pads are OK to be reused and have at least 3mm of friction material and no oil or grease contamination on the fronts. Rub the pad fronts against abrasive paper on a flat surface to clean them before refitting. Also put some copper grease pad on the pads’ backs and mounting lugs.