Read­ers’ Mo­tors

Rob Slater’s VW Eos 2.0 TFSI.

Car Mechanics (UK) - - Contents -

Rob Slater en­joys open-air mo­tor­ing.

My wife and I have al­ways run a com­pany car as our main ve­hi­cle, along with some­thing more func­tional to trans­port kids and shop­ping round town. Just over four years ago, the op­tion arose to try some­thing a bit dif­fer­ent as the kids were now in­de­pen­dent. My wife de­cided that a VW Eos would fit the bill, so a 2007 2.0 TFSI with 40,000 miles, one owner and a full ser­vice his­tory was duly bought.

As an avid reader of CM for more 20 years and a keen am­a­teur me­chanic, I had main­tained our pre­vi­ous cars with a rel­a­tively sim­ple tool­kit and mul­ti­me­ter, along with help and advice from Steve Roth­well. More in-depth jobs that couldn’t be tack­led on the drive­way, or re­quired the pur­chase of spe­cial­ist tools, were farmed out to a lo­cal garage. I was some­what ap­pre­hen­sive at the prospect of main­tain­ing an Eos, which is based on the VW Golf MKV, given the com­plex­ity of its Can-bus and fold­ing roof sys­tems.

I needed to come up with a main­te­nance sched­ule that fit­ted with the car’s much lower an­nual mileage (ap­prox­i­mately 4000) and age, hope­fully ad­dress­ing any known weak points with the roof or run­ning gear. The idea was to keep the Eos safe and re­li­able for many years to come, while ex­pand­ing my skills and, where nec­es­sary, my tool­kit to work on a mod­ernish car.

With some help, advice and in­sight from Steve, I sourced a ser­vice man­ual, a VCDS scan de­vice and a few spe­cial ser­vice tools. These have cost around £400, which is a rea­son­able amount spread over the last four years, as we plan to keep the VW for as long as pos­si­ble.

Al­though the VCDS cost £300 at the time of pur­chase, it has been in­valu­able on nu­mer­ous oc­ca­sions and has more that paid for it­self, al­though it did take a bit of get­ting used to if you’ve not han­dled such tools be­fore. I have also joined the Eos User Fo­rum ( which is very ac­tive and is a great source of knowl­edge. The car is treated to an an­nual ser­vice at a garage, with an ex­tra oil change un­der­taken at home.

Given the car is now 10 years old and has cov­ered an ex­tra 12,000 miles, there have been a few prob­lems that have needed at­ten­tion.

Leak­ing roof

The Eos roof is an amaz­ing piece of kit, but is prone to leaks around the A- and C-pil­lars. The roof needs a spe­cial Ptfe-based lu­bri­cant ap­plied at least ev­ery six months (around £40 per year) and the own­ers’ fo­rum has work­arounds and fixes for just about ev­ery leak you might en­counter.

Cli­mate con­trol sys­tem

Like most sys­tems, the cli­mate con­trol re­lies on flaps/con­trol mo­tors to di­rect air around the cabin and these can fail over time and re­quire re­plac­ing. If you’re hav­ing prob­lems with the sys­tem, VCDS can be in­valu­able in iden­ti­fy­ing the cli­mate con­trol mo­tor and us­ing live data to see what’s go­ing on. Be warned: re­plac­ing parts can be very fid­dly!

Dipstick/oil fil­ter hous­ing

Due to the con­stant cy­cling be­tween hot and cold, the dipstick top seal can break off and the plas­tic oil fil­ter hous­ing can leak – these are well-known Golf MKV weak spots and eas­ily fixed.

Pcv/di­verter valve and hand­brake ca­ble

The pos­i­tive crank­case ven­ti­la­tion (PCV) and turbo di­verter valves are com­mon fail­ure points. The PCV took five min­utes to re­place and the car seemed to idle bet­ter after­wards. The di­verter valve re­leases pres­sure in the intake sys­tem on tur­bocharged en­gines when the throt­tle is lifted or closed. Al­though not split, it did show signs of wear and took around 30 min­utes to fix as the car needed to be jacked up and sup­ported on axle stands. The hand­brake ca­bles are prone to rub­bing on the body so re­quire check­ing and re­new­ing, but this is an easy DIY job.

Airbag pres­sure sen­sor

When the airbag warn­ing light il­lu­mi­nated, the faulty sen­sor was eas­ily iden­ti­fied us­ing VCDS. Once the door­card was re­moved, the sen­sor con­tacts were cleaned and re­con­nected be­fore eras­ing the er­ror code.


The slave cylin­der failed and leaked fluid all over the en­gine bay, but this was be­yond what I could un­der­take on the drive­way and re­quired spe­cial tools, so it was han­dled by a lo­cal me­chanic.


The front wing has had to be re­placed due to a poor de­sign which traps wa­ter, salt and mud in the metal, al­though the prob­lem can be avoided if you re­move the in­ner wing and mud­flaps each year and give them a clean. A few other spots of rust have been touched up with a spray can. Al­though it might seem we have had more than our fair share of prob­lems, most of these are com­mon to the Golf MKV and are merely signs of age. Over­all, the Eos has been great fun for open-top mo­tor­ing in sum­mer and, due to the metal roof, it’s good in win­ter, too. As a bonus, I’ve also picked up new skills along the way.

Would I rec­om­mend one? If you’re pre­pared to put in the ad­di­tional ef­fort over and above that re­quired for an equiv­a­lent Golf, then yes!

It may look daunt­ing at first glance, but with the right tools and a ser­vice man­ual it’s sur­pris­ing how many jobs can be tack­led at home. The or­ange rubber seal was start­ing to show signs of wear on the di­verter valve and was re­placed with an up­rated Volk­swa­gen part.

Roof seals must be cleaned and lubed ev­ery six months. This tur­key baster was a cheap ‘tool’ to flush out and clean the front and rear drain tubes. The hand­brake ca­ble is a known weak spot, but it can eas­ily be re­placed at home.

With the roof up , there is a re­ally use­ful amount of boot space.

The spare tyre well is a known wa­ter col­lec­tion point. If it’s wet, it can wreck the pump and stop the roof from work­ing.

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