Daewoo Matic 796cc three-cylinder
1 The engine is very close to the right-hand side of the engine bay, so access for hands and spanners isn’t great. Removing the right-hand headlamp provides more room in which to work, but this wasn’t possible on our car.
2 With the front of the car raised and securely supported on axle stands, remove the right-hand wheel, than detach the wheelarch liner and pull it clear. If the securing screws aren’t gripping, lever out the screw-head while rotating it.
3 The protective panel between the inner wing and the engine bay must come out; it’s secured by a single Phillips screw plus two nuts (10mm). Take out the headlamp, which is normally held by two bolts (10mm), plus a securing clip.
4 Release the bolt (12mm) holding the lower adjuster strap for the power steering pump. In this photograph we are looking at the pump area from beneath the right-hand wheelarch – access is relatively easy from here.
5 Not so easy to see nor reach is the alternator belt adjuster strap securing nut (12mm spanner), tucked away deep within the rearmost part of the right-hand side of the engine bay. Release the nut and the alternator pivot nut/bolt.
6 The multi-grooved outer drive-belt can now be released from the crankshaft and power steering pump pulleys. Closely inspect the belt and renew it unless it’s in excellent condition. Fitting a new belt now is better than waiting until the original breaks!
7 With the power steering pump drivebelt out of the way, remove the alternator drivebelt (the inner one of the two belts). Our belt was showing signs of deterioration and was renewed together with the PAS belt.
8 To aid access to release the forward bolt holding the cambelt’s lower cover, we pulled the steering pump as far forward as possible, locking it in this position by tightening the top adjuster strap securing bolt.
9 Take out the bolts (10mm) securing the uppermost of the two plastic covers that protect the timing belt. A deep socket spanner makes this job easier, so that the socket driver bar is clear of the belt cover.
10 With the bolts removed, carefully lift out the upper cover for the cambelt, taking care not to damage the rubber seal, which may slip from its groove in the cover as this is extricated. Check the seal’s condition.
11 From the wheelarch, unscrew and remove the bolt (17mm – use a strong, six-sided socket spanner) securing the crankshaft pulley. The bolt came out quite easily, but this may not always be the case.
12 The crankshaft pulley is now free to be removed, providing access to the timing belt and sprocket, all located out of sight behind the pulley. Closely inspect the pulley for any damage.
12 Next, take out the three bolts (10mm) holding the timing belt’s lower cover to the engine; store the bolts in a safe place. At this stage, the belt cover cannot be removed, because the dipstick and its tube are in the way.
13 Take out the engine oil dipstick, wrapping it in a clean cloth to prevent it collecting dust while out of the vehicle. Next, unscrew and remove the single bolt (10mm) securing the dipstick tube to the engine, then…
15 …carefully ease the dipstick tube from its aperture in the cylinder block. The lower end of the tube can be seen in the centre of this shot, with the dipstick tube just having been removed and eased upwards, away from the engine.
16 The way is now clear to remove the lower cover for the timing belt, which can be guided downwards and out of the engine bay via the wheelarch. Inspect the cover for damage. Now is a good time to clean both belt covers, ready for refitting.
17 As described in the main text, with the engine slowly and precisely rotated to Top Dead Centre (TDC) on number 1 cylinder, align the manufacturer’s timing marks (or make your own using paint) between the camshaft sprocket and the engine.
18 At the bottom of the engine, still at TDC on number 1 cylinder, align the maker’s timing marks or alternatively apply and align your own marks. Re-check that all the marks align after fitting the new belt.
19 Use a 12mm ring or socket spanner to slacken the bolt securing the timing belt tensioner, then move the tensioner to release tension on the belt. Temporarily lock the tensioner in the ‘slack belt’ position.
20 With the timing belt relieved of tension, it is easy to remove it. Although on this engine the belt appeared to be in good condition, it was due for renewal and a new one was fitted regardless.
21 Next, the belt tensioner assembly can be unbolted. Note the coil spring, which needs to be detached from the screw protruding from the water pump body; this screw will be used with the new pump.
22 Take out the bolts and nuts (10mm) securing the water pump. The top bolt also holds the steel shield behind the cambelt – the camshaft sprocket has to be taken off to unbolt this shield and the water pump.
23 Here’s the location of the uppermost bolt holding the water pump and, outside it, the steel shield described in Step 22. The design of this set-up means some time has to be spent in removing components.
24 Here, we are detaching the camshaft sprocket, having first removed its securing bolt (17mm). Ensure that the sprocket is in clean condition and that it is stored in a safe place until the time comes to refit it.
25 With the camshaft sprocket out of the way, the bolts (10mm) holding the steel shield can be released and removed. These bolt threads had previously been secured using locking compound; reapply on refitting.
26 The steel shield can now be lifted clear of the engine. This one was in excellent condition, just requiring a clean and close inspection. Also check that the mounting bushes for the securing bolts are in good nick.
27 Fully unscrew and remove all the remaining bolts around the perimeter of the water pump, ensuring they are all out before carefully dislodging the pump from its gasket face on the cylinder block.
28 On this Matiz there was insufficient clearance to remove the water pump without unscrewing and removing its forwardmost stud. To wind it out, we had to screw two nuts tightly together on the stud.
29 After some effort, the water pump was at last released from the confines of the engine compartment. Close examination confirmed that it had been weeping coolant for some time.
30 With the pump out of the way, the next challenging task is to thoroughly clean the gasket face on the engine, ready for the new pump and gasket. The careful use of a blunt scraper, plus a little cellulose thinners applied by cloth, does the trick.
31 It is always wise to check that the new water pump is identical to the original in terms of bolt spacings, profile, etc, before attempting to fit it. The screw that holds the belt tensioner spring needs to be transferred to the new pump.
32 The instructions with the new pump mentioned the sparing use of sealant in addition to the supplied gasket. They also advised that the pump may leak during the first three hours of running, until it beds in.
33 Guiding the new pump into position is a challenge as it only just fits through the available gap. It must be perfectly aligned so that its two studs and three bolts all fit correctly without damaging the gasket.
34 The new tensioner pulley assembly that came with the timing belt kit. Note that a new coil spring isn’t supplied with this kit; the original spring had to be transferred to the new tensioner assembly.
35 The new tensioner assembly is fitted to the cylinder block and the coil spring connected to the screw protruding from the water pump body (see main text). At this stage, the tensioner needs to be set so that the belt is not under tension.
36 This photograph, taken from below, shows the new tensioner assembly in place, indicating its position relative to the crankshaft sprocket, below it, and the water pump drive sprocket, just above it.
37 Check again that the timing marks align and that the tensioner assembly is not yet applying pressure to the timing belt, then feed the new belt into place around the sprockets in the sequence as described.
38 With the new belt in position, the tensioner is set to apply pressure and the engine is rotated. Then, the timing mark alignments are re-checked (see main text). Refit all the remaining parts, ensuring the crankshaft pulley is correctly located.