DIY Ser­vic­ing:

Jaguar X-TYPE 2.5 petrol

Car Mechanics (UK) - - Contents -

Rob Hawkins finds out how North Wales Jag Cen­tre ser­vices the bar­gain-priced Jaguar and why many of its com­mon prob­lems are un­eco­nom­i­cal to fix.

Many all-wheel-drive Jaguar X-TYPES are firmly in the bar­gain base­ment of saloon cars. For less than £1000, you can buy a four-wheel-drive ex­ec­u­tive saloon with a V6 en­gine. Any sim­i­lar spec­i­fi­ca­tion from the likes of Audi and BMW will be much more ex­pen­sive.

Sadly, these bar­gains have a mul­ti­tude of prob­lems. Per­haps the big­gest killer of any X-TYPE is cor­ro­sion of the sills. The sill cov­ers may be able to hide most of the dam­age when you’re look­ing from the out­side, but peer un­der­neath and you’ll be able to see their true con­di­tion. And if you dare to re­move a sill cover, not only should you be pre­pared to find cor­ro­sion, but also to re­place all the fit­tings, which usu­ally break.

The cor­ro­sion doesn’t stop at the sills. The rear lower sus­pen­sion arms can rot – par­tic­u­larly spring pans, which have been known to crum­ble, re­sult­ing in the base of the coil spring push­ing through.

Fluid leaks are an­other ma­jor headache, rang­ing from the en­gine coolant (luck­ily it’s pink, so easy to spot) to the power steer­ing fluid. Some are eco­nom­i­cal to fix, but any­thing con­nected to the trans­fer box usu­ally means hours of hard labour.

If the en­gine oil sump is leak­ing, the sen­si­ble so­lu­tion is to re­move it, clean the mat­ing sur­faces and re­fit it with a new gas­ket. On the AWD X-TYPE, re­moval of the sump pan re­quires the trans­fer box to be de­tached, which adds an­other five hours to the job. The trans­fer box can also leak and, if you are will­ing to live with this, then it is sen­si­ble to check the level of oil in­side it and top it up. Trou­ble is there’s no ac­cess to the filler plug. In­stead, as Matt Nor­bury of North Wales Jag Cen­tre has dis­cov­ered, it is pos­si­ble to force oil through the more ac­ces­si­ble drain plug. The trans­fer box should hold half-a-litre, so Matt forces 550ml into it in the knowl­edge that 10% will be lost down his arms and into a drip tray!

The ma­jor­ity of the ser­vice jobs are straight­for­ward to con­duct, the only ex­cep­tion be­ing the re­newal of the spark plugs, which in­volves re­moval of the in­let man­i­fold, but luck­ily the plugs should last for 100,000 miles.

We last cov­ered a ser­vice of the all­wheel-drive X-TYPE in 2009 and also ran a front-wheel-drive project car in 2015, so the theme of this DIY Ser­vic­ing fo­cuses on the typ­i­cal prob­lems that can arise and, in some cases, how to live with them.

Equip­ment re­quired › Jack › axle stands › oil tray › sock­ets/span­ners › Allen keys › Torx bits › flat-head and crosshead screw­drivers › wheel brace › pry bars › oil fil­ter wrench › an­tifreeze hy­drom­e­ter › elec­tronic brake/clutch fluid strength checker › bat­tery tester › ham­mers › brake caliper wind­back tool › wa­ter pump pli­ers › wire brush › abra­sive pa­per › brake grease › spray grease › tyre pump › torch › torque wrench › rags for clean­ing › dis­pos­able gloves Over­all dif­fi­culty rat­ing

Un­der­bon­net lay­out COOLANT EX­PAN­SION TANK AIR FIL­TER HOUS­ING BRAKE FLUID RESER­VOIR PAS FLUID RESER­VOIR FUSES OIL FILLER CAP SCREEN­WASH DIP­STICK BAT­TERY

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