Land Rover Defender
Advice on buying the best.
If you’re after a practical, back-to-basics mud-plugger then look no further than the iconic Land Rover Defender. It can go just about anywhere off-road, parts are easy to find and relatively cheap, and mechanically-speaking, nothing on it should prove too much of a headache – especially if you buy wisely. Before we get down to the nitty-gritty, though, let’s clear up something: Defenders were introduced in mid-1990, so anything built before that is not and never was a Defender, regardless of the nameplate attached to its grille. Having inherited the tough, boxy looks of its coil-sprung Series model predecessors, it’s easy to get them confused – especially as sellers are often tempted to apply the ‘Defender’ name to describe just about any Land Rover from the 1970s and 1980s. To be absolutely sure, check the VIN. Just before the serial number will be letters such as CA or HA. If the first letter of that pair is between A and G, you’re looking at a pre-defender model.
But here’s the rub: it had electronic ignition management as opposed to the 300’s all-mechanical set-up, thus marking the end of an era of unsophisticated bliss for those keen on doing everything themselves.
All but a few early Td5s have the benefit of optional ABS brakes, traction control, alloy wheels and a much more sophisticated-looking dash and interior.
The Defender continued to evolve over the years. A major update in 2007 included an extensive interior makeover and the replacement of the Td5 with a 2.4-litre four-cylinder TDCI Duratorq turbodiesel. Taken from the Ford Transit and mated to a new six-speed gearbox, this engine was tweaked by Land Rover and, as its name would suggest, it offers an incredible amount of useful torque for off-road use. Defenders from this date also had the benefit of forward-facing rear seats and improved air-conditioning and heating. In 2012, the engine was replaced by a more efficient EU5 2.2 version and that’s pretty much how it remained until it went out of production in 2016.
Running gear
The Defender’s coil spring suspension provides a firm ride, but it can take quite a hammering if used off-road, so look for broken springs, leaking shocks and worn bushes. A clunk at the rear can be a sign of wear in the rear A-frame balljoint.
Many Defenders go for a long time without proper maintenance, so things can get pricey if you’re playing catch up. That’s why it’s important to ensure that there’s grease in the swivel housing, there are no leaks from the seals and that the balls haven’t become pitted. It’s also worth checking that there aren’t leaks from the front diff input shaft seal and that the propshafts are properly greased via nipples; check UJS for wear, too. The often leaky transfer box should have been treated to regular fluid changes, so look for the relevant invoices. Climb underneath if you can and check for split rubber steering balljoint boots.
Regarding brakes, there were drums at the rear of the Defender until the arrival of the 300Tdi and, if neglected, the cylinder pistons can rust and stick. While the 200Tdi uses a reliable and troublefree vane-type rotary pump driven off the end of the oil pump to power the brake servo, the 300 uses a Wabco plungertype pump driven off the camshaft and the end cover can work loose, causing it to leak oil. The internals can also wear, leading to a ticking sound and its eventual failure. ABS was fitted to some Td5s, but it rarely gives any problems.
Bodywork, trim & electrics
Even though Defenders are robust vehicles that seem to go on forever, some examples will have been pretty heavily abused. Generally, superficial damage such as dents and scratches won’t be a problem, but rust might. It can get a hold in the front bulkhead, which can be tricky to repair, and also attacks the chassis outriggers on which the body is mounted, easily leading to MOT failure.
Other areas to check include the door pillars, the lower part of the windscreen
and the bottom of the doors. The alloy panels don’t rust, but they do react where they meet steel, such as the door frames and hinges, and the material dents easily.
Incidentally, on the Td5, the rear safari door is a one-piece steel affair, rather than an alloy skin over a steel frame as on the previous Tdi. It’s stronger, but the weight of the spare wheel on the back can cause it to fracture immediately below the glass, so check here carefully.
Defenders can leak and not just via the sunroof when the drain holes block. Door seals fail (they often weren’t much cop in the first place) and soft-tops are never efficient at keeping out the elements.
Given heavy and often unsympathetic usage, seats and trim can quickly look very shabby. Although everything can be replaced fairly easily, don’t buy one that
looks totally ruined inside – a trashed driver’s seat can make a Defender very uncomfortable to drive.
Obviously, the 200Tdi and 300Tdi were devoid of complex electronics, although the last ones did have an ECU for the EGR circuit. Suffice to say, everything’s very basic and there are few worries beyond bad earths and poorly wired-in accessories, such as fog-lamps.
The Td5 has an immobiliser and alarm system, for which sensors can sometimes prove problematic, so many owners opt to disconnect the alarm.
If you were wondering about the spares situation for these vehicles, worry not. Happily, there’s a raft of knowledgeable independent Land Rover specialists that can supply what you need and nothing is particularly expensive.
Engines
The X-TYPE’S petrol engines were based on Ford’s Duratec unit, while the diesel was really just a modified Ford Duratorq TDCI. All powerlants are chain-driven, so there’s no need to worry about cambelt changes. It’s worth watching out for water leaks from the expansion tank on early cars, because they were prone to splitting along the centre seam. Likewise, pay attention to the condition of the V6 water pump belt – it’s hidden behind the battery box.
Still on the V6, coil pack issues aren’t uncommon, so if there’s a flatspot this
could be the reason. And if you notice the water temperature go into the red, it could either be the thermostat or fan control module, both of which can give problems.
Regular oil and filter changes are important, particularly on the diesels. Officially, it’s a 12,500-mile regime using a quality 5W-30 fully-synthetic. EGR valve failure is common, especially
on later models where it’s driven by an electric motor.
Due to their torquey engines and poor component quality, early 4x4 2.5 models suffered a spate of broken transfer boxes. Most of the troublesome units will have been replaced by now, but if you notice an oil leak or excessive whine then it will need changing; Bristol Transmissions
sell them for £834. Both early and late types are prone to high bearing wear, although if the early ones are working well then they do provide more grip. The ZF autobox wasn’t that strong, so be wary of jerky changes and loss of drive. Obviously, any juddering or a clattering noise from dual mass flywheels (most likely on the 2.2D) will prove expensive. Engine component prices OIL FILTER Main dealer £10.88 Independent from £8.39
V6 COILPACK Main dealer £67.25 Independent from £49.49
DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL Main dealer £496.57 Independent from £329.99
Suspension/steering
Front wheel bearings wear out quickly, so listen for any tell-tale whirring. Front lower bushes/balljoints don’t last that long either, and only complete replacement lower arms are available.
The X-TYPE employs a multilink arrangement at the rear and replacing worn components can be tricky and prove pricey – the anti-roll bar bush is usually the first to go. The tie-bar bushes can be a real headache if the bolts holding it have rusted solid. Some arms cost £40 each side, other bushes are less, but with labour the costs will soon add up.
On four-wheel drive models, CV joints wear out relatively quickly but, unlike the front, can be replaced individually.
Propshaft noise can also be an issue so listen for excessive whine. Same goes for the power steering rack, which can get noisy on early cars if the seals dry out – the remedy is additional lubrication. Suspension/steering component prices FRONT LOWER WISHBONE Main dealer £183.68 Independent from £57.99
FRONT WHEEL BEARING Main dealer £49.90 Independent from £51.99
Brakes
ABS sensors are problematic on some cars, so watch for a warning light on the dash, as well as stalling (it affects the cruise/stability control). Fortunately, replacements aren’t expensive.
The rear brake set-up has an integral handbrake system – if water and dirt get past the seal, the caliper can seize. The remedy is to dismantle it, but you’ll need a special tool to retract the caliper.
Note the competitive pricing of Jaguar main dealer discs – try paying this little at an Audi, Mercedes-benz or BMW dealer! Brake component prices FRONT DISCS (PAIR) Main dealer £89.23 Independent from £65.98
FRONT PADS Main dealer £59.78 Independent from £22.99
ABS SENSOR Main dealer £120.40 Independent from £41.99
Other issues
Rust can be a problem on the earliest examples, especially if it’s taken hold in the sills. The plastic covers trap water and the drain holes can block, so take care. Post-2005 models also rust around the chrome trim that surrounds the boot release mechanism.
The driver’s door lock assembly has given problems in the past, but most will have had a modified item fitted.
Early, entry-level X-TYPE’S may feel a little sparse inside, so go for a Sport or SE. It’s relatively easy to upgrade a cloth interior to leather (£400 secondhand), but be careful with the electrics, because the touch-screen console is not ‘plug and play’, so you will have to get it reprogrammed. Other component prices DRIVER’S DOOR LOCK ASSEMBLY Main dealer £237.17 Secondhand from £30.00