Hyundai Coupé 1975cc four-cylinder
1 Remove the four 10mm bolts that hold the engine’s plastic cover to the brackets and lift the complete assembly from the engine bay.
2 Unscrew the two 10mm bolts that secure the front left engine cover support bracket to the cylinderhead. Keep the bolts and bracket in a safe place.
3 The left rear engine cover support plate is held in place by two 10mm bolts; note that their heads should be painted white.
4 Unscrew the remaining 10mm bolts that hold the top timing belt cover in place and lift it up and away from the engine. Check it over for damage, including abrasion by the belt, or pulley.
5 While the auxiliary belts are fitted, loosen the four 10mm bolts that pass through the alternator and power steering pump pulleys, which are threaded into the water pump.
6 To improve access to the alternator adjustment bolts, Ross recommends that the expansion tank cap is removed (with a cold engine) and the tank itself lifted away from the working area.
7 Unscrew and remove the top and bottom bolts (14mm) that hold the power steering pump to its bracket, ensuring that the pump does not drop.
8 There is no need to disconnect any pipework; there is sufficient room to manoeuvre the pump out of the way, without any further dismantling.
9 Loosen the alternator’s top securing bolt and unscrew the adjuster (both 12mm). From beneath the car, loosen the pivot bolt (not pictured).
10 Manipulate the alternator towards the back of the engine and remove both the power steering and alternator drive belts. Push the alternator back towards the engine again.
11 Jack the car up, place an axle stand beneath the offside sill’s jacking point and remove the front wheel. Remove the (rust prone) screws that hold the inner wheelarch’s plastic liner in place.
12 Loosen the 14mm aircon compressor belt tensioner nut by one turn only.
13 Turn the 12mm side adjuster bolt anti-clockwise continually, until it will not turn any more. This lowers the tensioner so that you can unhook the air-conditioning belt from the pulleys.
14 Consider replacing all three auxiliary belts. These belts are not only cracked but also have deep grooves worn into them by the pulleys, especially that for the air-conditioning pulley (shown right).
15 Using a 22mm socket and extension bar, unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt and manipulate the pulley from its keyway – do not forget the dished washer behind it.
16 Support the engine so it does not drop suddenly, when you unbolt the nearside engine mount. Use a block of wood to protect the brittle aluminium sump against the metal jack head.
17 Remove the 14mm nuts and bolts that hold the engine mount to the engine block, prior to unscrewing the 17mm bolt that secures it to the inner wing.
18 Situated beneath the engine mount is a strengthening plate; unscrew the remaining 14mm bolt and lift it clear from the studs.
19 You will need to remove the combined water pump and power steering/ alternator drive pulleys, so you can gain access to the pictured timing cover bolt (arrowed).
20 Consulting Step 5, unscrew by hand the pulley bolts that you loosened earlier and lift the pulleys out of the engine bay. Note that the centre holes are not perfect circles, which aids refitting.
21 Remove the remainder of the lower timing belt cover fixing screws (10mm) and withdraw the cover moulding out carefully through the inner wheelarch aperture.
22 Pictured are the two timing belt cover halves, showing the locations of the fixings; several bolts were missing from our car, left out presumably from a previous belt change. Note that a pair of gaskets feature, too.
23 Refit the crankshaft bolt and use it to turn the engine slowly clockwise. Pictured inset is the crankshaft timing notch, which should align with the rib in the engine block casting.
24 Note the red painted mark behind the camshaft pulley, as pictured. When the crankshaft timing notches align, as per Step 23…
25 ...the painted red slot should be visible through the small hole, as you position your eyes at the same height as the pulley and look at it directly.
26 You will also notice two timing slots on the pulley’s edge (highlighted in white), both of which should point at the joint between the camshaft cover and cylinderhead.
27 Remove the bolt that secures the eccentric timing belt tensioner. This will release all tension on the old belt, so it can be unhooked from the pulleys and withdrawn from the engine bay.
28 The idler bearing is
pictured from within the inner wing, adjacent to the crankshaft pulley. A single 14mm bolt holds it in place; swap it with a new replacement from your timing belt kit.
29 Fit a new tensioner pulley (See Step 27). Locate the timing belt into position, noting that the arrows point in the same direction of engine rotation. Never crimp it.
30 Thread the timing
belt around the pulleys, starting at the crankshaft and working anticlockwise, so that the slack side of the belt bears against the tensioner. Manipulate the tensioner and tighten the retaining bolt.
31 Check that the
timing marks (see Steps 23-26) have not deviated. Correct belt tension is indicated by you being able to just-about twist the belt 90° half way down the point of its longest travel, as pictured.
32 Rotate the engine
two full crankshaft revolutions clockwise. Recheck the belt tension (Step 31) afterwards, should all be satisfactory. Then tighten the idler and tensioner retaining bolts to their torque wrench settings – which are the same.
33 Pictured is the
water pump nose – check the pump for coolant leaks and rotate the shaft to detect tight bearings. As it is not driven by the timing belt, replacement is not part of the official schedule.
34 Refit the lower
timing belt cover (noting Step 19), followed by the crankshaft washer, pulley and retaining bolt. Screw the three ancillary belts into their respective positions on the crankshaft pulley, after...
35 … locating the
alternator pulley drive over the water pump nose first (as pictured), followed by that for the power steering pump. Replace the four bolts and tighten them to 8-10Nm. Ross advises that this is a fairly fiddly task.
36 Loop the aircon pump belt into position and adjust the tensioner. Aim for around a 5mm deflection midway along the longest length. It should be neither too loose, nor overtightened.
37 Tighten the central aircon tensioner nut to 4355Nm. Replace the inner wheelarch guard, noting that the retaining bolts are very prone to rusting; apply copper grease to their threads.
38 Refit the upper timing belt cover, as pictured, plus reinforcing plate (See Step 18), followed by the engine mount.
39 Locate the alternator belt onto the pulleys. Lever gently against the alternator (disconnecting the battery first), aiming for a 5-10mm belt deflection. Adjust the tensioner and tighten the locknut (See Step 9).
40 Refit the power steering pump, by installing its upper and lower bolts. Fit and tension the new belt to ensure a 5-10mm deflection; overtightening damages the pump bearings.
41 Refit the remaining engine cover brackets, not forgetting that the whiteheaded bolts secure the rearmost mount.
42 Check your work area for any leftover parts, not forgetting to reposition the expansion bottle and refit its cap. Start the engine and check that it idles smoothly after taking away the engine support.
43 With the ignition cut, reunite the engine top cover with its mountings. Refit the plastic cover on the subframe, if appropriate, followed by the road wheel. Job done.