ENGINE OIL & FILTER

14 REFIT HOUSING LID

The air filter housing’s lid can be quite awkward to refit. Make sure the two hoses on the underside are located and secured with their spring clips (pinch the clips by hand to open them), before securing the lid with its four clips. And check the air filter isn’t trapped.

15 DRAIN OIL

The 14mm sump drain plug can be easily accessed from underneath the vehicle. Slacken it at first, then place an oil drain tray underneath and remove the drain plug. Leave to drain for 10-15 minutes. A new drain plug should ideally be fitted; this is available from stockists including GSF Car Parts. Tighten it to 30Nm.

16 REMOVE OIL FILTER

The spin-on oil filter is located next to the sump and its drain plug. There’s room to use a filter strap, but we found ours had been overtightened – we almost needed to tear it off using a chain oil filter wrench. Our Mann replacement was supplied by GSF Car Parts.

17 FIT NEW OIL FILTER

Make sure the new oil filter is the same shape and size as the old one. Add a smear of fresh engine oil to its seal to reduce the risk of it gripping and tearing when fitting it. Hand-fit and tighten the new filter. Do not use any tools to tighten it.

18 5W-30 FULLY-SYNTHETIC

Pour in 3.1 litres of 5W-30 fully-synthetic engine oil (we used Drivetec’s C2 PRO supplied through GSF Car Parts). Run the engine to ensure the oil pressure warning light doesn’t remain illuminated. Switch off the engine, then check for leaks from around the oil filter and the drain plug. Recheck the level on the dipstick and top-up if necessary.