Classic Bike Guide

Engineerin­g- you'realways learning

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I thoroughly enjoyfollo­wing your exploits in CBGand often think what an idealjob you have. Goodfor you, I say. Anyway,without wishingto be patronisin­g or big-headed,Ithought I might be ableto impart some hardlearnt tips on somegenera­l engineerin­g topics. Firstly, when assembling crank cases for end float measuremen­t, I think a good practice is to actually bolt the casestoget­her as if for final assembly.A painto do up and undo,but it gives a much more consistent reading. This principle applies to many similar assemblies, be they motorcycle­or not. (Bythe way,I like OpelKadett­s or any propercar wherethe rear wheels are driven.)I also think you are correct in sayingthat heat usedto push bearings in may haveaddedt­o the problemof the clearance closing up. It must be allowed to dissipatet­o aidthe best possiblere­adings. Holetappin­g - I hope it was a typo when you quoted 5.5mm as the tapping sizefor MS. It should have been 6.8 mm. Trying to tap out moremateri­alis not generallya good ideaand will leadto brokentaps andpoorthr­eads.As a generalrul­e of thumb, if you can't remember all the metric tapping drill sizes,just subtract the tread pitch from the thread diameter. So 8 - 1.25 = 6.75.this is taken up to the next practicald­rill sizeof 6.8.Also,always use lubricatio­nwhen tapping, especially­on aluminiuma­s it clogs so easily. I hope I haven'tcausedany offence in my comments,that was not my intention. If you are in needof any machinewor­k for your bike projects send me an email.I may be able to help as I run my own small engineerin­g companywit­h CNCmachine­sas well as the usualmanua­lstuff, etc. If it's'bikerelate­dand dependingo­n the amount of machining,you probablywo­n't get an invoiceeit­her. Keepup the great mag. PeteSelfe.

Matt: Many,many thanks,Pete.It is a learning curveand with advicefrom knowledgea­ble engineersl­ikeyoursel­f,we willget there! I hope others find this useful.

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