A clutch of questions
Martin Collyer adds his name to the list of Triumph clutch problem sufferers. He can’t stop his 1961 TR6 crunching when he puts it into first, despite setting the tickover as low as possible. He asks three questions: what it the exact depth the spring nuts should sit, is it worth setting the pressure plate level with a dial gauge and should the operating lever at rest be parallel with the centre line of the bike, because his isn’t?
Firstly, the nuts should be about level with the surface of the pressure plate, but that’s really a starting point and depends on the length of springs, cup and screws being correct; plus if the friction plates are worn, the clutch pack becomes thinner, reducing the spring preload, meaning the springs need to be wound in further. A dial gauge isn’t necessary, so long as the pressure plate spins pretty level to the eye when withdrawn, and turning the kickstart it should be fine – again, it’s not a precise science.
The arm angle is a good point. On Triumphs the arm does angle inward to suit the angle of the cable – but, from memory, Martin’s looks a bit further than usual. This can be adjusted with the pushrod adjuster under the chrome-plated cover. I would have a look in there anyway and see what’s going on. To make the most of the cable travel, the arc of movement of the operating arm inside needs to be optimised, and I guess at half-lift the internal arm should be at 90° to the pushrod.
One thing concerning the tickover, though – I generally pull in the clutch and blip the throttle, because the snatch tends to break any ‘oil stiction’ of the plates. Just declutching with a slow ticking engine may not.