WHAT TO LOOK FOR

GRUESOME GROT

Rampant corrosion is the Sprint’s biggest enemy so fifinding a solid one is crucial, as major repairs can prove uneconomic. Pre-1976 cars are generally better-built but bodged restorations can quickly turn a car into a moneypit; a photographic history of a rebuild adds peace of mind. A build-up of mud behind the headlights causes the complex front structure to rot, but you should also pay close attention to the wheelarch lips and inner arches and boot and bonnet leading edges. The front bulkhead can only be checked properly from within the engine bay and behind the dashboard. The front valance and A-pillars require close scrutiny, likewise the vinyl roof, which can hide a multitude of sins.

EFFECTIVE REPAIRS

Checking beneath a Sprint is just as important, so make sure you give the inner and outer sills and the flfloorpan a thorough prod. Footwells rot through so wet carpets should ring alarm bells, and pay particular attention to both the front subframe mountings and the chassis legs as serious corrosion here will be costly to rectify. Ripped or ill-fifitting bootlid seals encourages water ingress which, given time, will rot out the flfloor and fuel tank. Secondhand tanks are harder to fifind than you might think because Toledo/1300 ones are different. Body repair sections are available but original panels – and salvageable donor cars – are almost non-existent now. The good news – if you’re not a stickler for originality – is that the Triumph Dolomite Club can supply the front wings and the rust-prone front panel in GRP.

KEEP YOUR COOL

Frequent oil changes and fifitting a non-return valve oil fifilter will help to keep the engine healthy but listen out for a noisy timing chain and look for evidence of oil leaks from tired seals and gaskets. But care is needed with that all-important single-cam, 16-valve head. Alloy construction means correct anti-freeze levels are crucial in preventing potentially fatal corrosion so a neglected cooling system will have calamitous consequences sooner or later. A recently replaced radiator is a good sign (note that it differs from the 1850’s radiator) and check that the viscous fan isn’t seized. Ignore any signs of headgasket leakage or outright failure at your peril because it could have allowed the cylinder head to warp and remember that correct torqueing of the bolts is crucial. Have a look at the spark plugs – stripped threads and oil collecting around them cause misfififires. Parts availability from specialists and clubs is decent.