Classic Car Weekly (UK) - - Buying & Selling -


Age-re­lated is­sues aside, elec­tri­cal trou­bles aren’t com­mon although it’s worth check­ing the con­di­tion of the con­nec­tion points on each side of the en­gine bay.

Us­ing a mul­ti­tude of bul­let con­nec­tors, cor­ro­sion can lead to a host of is­sues with the light­ing although at £400 a com­plete new loom isn’t pro­hib­i­tively ex­pen­sive. Lastly, make sure you check the op­er­a­tion of the var­i­ous cabin switches thor­oughly, be­cause find­ing re­place­ments (the glove­box light switch, for ex­am­ple) can be tricky, mean­ing a po­ten­tially lengthy hunt for se­cond­hand parts.


Shar­ing a bodyshell with the Jaguar Mk2 means the same cor­ro­sion is­sues ap­ply, as does the po­ten­tial for eye-wa­ter­ing restora­tion costs. Sur­face rot will likely be much worse un­der­neath, so con­cen­trate on the lower six inches of body­work es­pe­cially the lower wings, in­ner and outer sills, door bot­toms, and front/ rear valances. Whee­larches rust, along with the front panel and around the head­lamps. Bon­net and bootlid aside, most panels and re­pair sec­tions are avail­able, but qual­ity parts – needed to avoid ma­jor fet­tling – are costly. Front wings cost more than £2500 each. Ouch…


The Ad­west power steer­ing is prone to fluid leaks, es­pe­cially where the in­put shaft en­ters the steer­ing box. It’s heavy with­out, though, and can’t be swapped over be­cause the front sub­frame is dif­fer­ent – you’d need an elec­tric con­ver­sion.

Lack of use will seize the brakes and a com­plete over­haul can ex­ceed £1000 in parts alone, so en­sure they re­spond well on the test-drive.

As for the sus­pen­sion, aside from rot around the mount­ing points it’s worth en­sur­ing that the front springs/dampers are of the cor­rect spec­i­fi­ca­tion; the lighter V8 meant they dif­fered from the Jaguar Mk2 items. And fi­nally, check the con­di­tion of the hubs and splines if wire wheels are fit­ted.


Many ex­am­ples have been re­stored at least once but the qual­ity of the work that has been car­ried out is cru­cial, so tread care­fully.

What­ever the his­tory, get a prospec­tive pur­chase on a ramp be­cause the chas­sis legs and cabin and boot floors have a ten­dency to dis­solve away, and check­ing the rear spring hang­ers is vi­tal; the dou­ble-skinned ‘top hat’ sec­tions rot from the in­side so a cur­sory prod isn’t enough.

Check the ex­te­rior chrome­work; a re­place­ment bumpers can ex­ceed £800 and the later slim items of­ten cor­roded more quickly.


A com­plete en­gine over­haul can cost £8000 or more at a spe­cial­ist so don’t rush the checks. Oil pres­sure should be at least 40psi when warm; look for smoke from the ex­haust, in­di­cat­ing in­ter­nal wear.

A leak­ing rear crank seal isn’t un­com­mon – re­plac­ing the orig­i­nal rope seal with an up­graded part re­quires some ma­chin­ing – and lis­ten for the rat­tle of a worn tim­ing chain, some­thing ex­ac­er­bated by lack of reg­u­lar oil changes.

Nei­ther the fuel nor ig­ni­tion sys­tems pose any real prob­lems; both are pleas­ingly straight­for­ward to over­haul, with parts plen­ti­ful.

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