Classic Car Weekly (UK) - - Buying & Selling -

STEER­ING RACK Early steer­ing racks are known to pro­vide po­ten­tially ex­pen­sive headaches. Check for leaks – if you find any fluid mak­ing a break from the moth­er­ship you’re look­ing at a likely power steer­ing rack re­build.

GEAR­BOX The au­to­matic gear­box comes from Mercedes-Benz, and as such has proved to be equally as solid as the en­gine, with no ma­jor faults re­ported. Worn syn­chromeshes have been re­ported in 1978-1984 man­ual cars, so check for crunch­ing noises. Check the flex plate ten­sion as this may lead to wear in the crank thrust bear­ing, and then en­gine block de­struc­tion usu­ally fol­lows...

EN­GINE The 928’s en­gine is a strong unit, and is eas­ily ca­pa­ble of rack­ing up big mileages. How­ever, it’s im­per­a­tive that the tim­ing belt is re­placed ev­ery 60,000 miles. Check for re­ceipts that back this up as it’s an ex­pen­sive job – it’s wise to have the wa­ter pump re­placed at the same time.

ELECTRICS Check that ev­ery­thing works, and that the car hasn’t been left sit­ting for too long. The lo­ca­tion of the bat­tery – in the boot, un­der the spare wheel – doesn’t make trickle charg­ing easy. Check the 14pin con­nec­tor un­der the bon­net for f cor­ro­sion. A 928 en­thu­si­ast will be on top of this, though.

IN­TE­RIOR Al­though an ex­otic GT, the 928 was built to be used, so it’s not un­com­mon to find wear and tear. Most parts are avail­able. The 928 spanned the 1980s, when mas­sive mo­bile tele­phone ap­pendages were drilled into the dash. Also check that the air­con works, as re­plac­ing the unit is an ex­pen­sive en­ter­prise.

BRAKES This is the rea­son why check­ing the ser­vice his­tory is so im­por­tant. You’re look­ing for reg­u­lar brake fluid changes – should they be left too long you’ll en­ter a whole world of com­po­nent calami­ties, in­volv­ing the calipers, lines and discs, and re­plac­ing those items is nei­ther cheap nor easy.

FUEL hoses Try to check the con­di­tion of the fuel hoses. Th­ese will be get­ting old now, even for the new­est 928s. Re­place­ments are avail­able, but it’s best to buy one that’s had them re­freshed al­ready as it’s not a sim­ple job. Again, ask ques­tions. It’s sug­gested that they’re re­placed ev­ery five years.

SUS­PEN­SION Ball joints are a known is­sue, es­pe­cially the up­pers – you can’t ser­vice th­ese and they need re­plac­ing with con­trol arms, which isn’t cheap. Early cars used alu­minium ball joints, which are less hard­wear­ing than the later steel items.

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