WHAT TO LOOK FOR
TRIM AND ELECTRICS
Corrosion of the fuse box and wiring connectors is usually to blame for any electrical flakiness, so ensure that everything works. And don’t forget those pop-up headlamps, although replacement motors are both cheap and easy to source. Brittle plastics and difficulty in sourcing early trim bits and materials means avoiding an especially decrepit interior, and make sure that the fabric sunroof isn’t rotten or leaking.
RUST WORRIES
Rampant corrosion is the greatest threat, so don’t be satisfied until you’ve checked everywhere. Examine the edges of the bonnet and boot panels, the door bottoms, and the inner and outer wings, front and rear. Frilly wheel arches are commonplace, and rot can take hold behind the bumpers, around the screens and A-pillars, and in the front bulkhead. It’s crucial to lift the carpet behind the seats to check for corrosion and cracks where the rear bulkhead meets the floor.
CHECK THOSE SILLS
Getting the car on a ramp is a must. Check the condition of the cabin and boot floors, the front chassis rails and the spare wheel well, and pay attention to the three-piece sills – they can rot away unseen and seriously compromise the integrity of the body structure, especially on convertibles. The front subframe has a habit of dissolving, so check the security of both the frame and its mountings. And, of course, keep a wary eye out for filler and other signs of amateur body repairs.
TRANSMISSION
The early four-speed gearbox was shared with the Marina, and can prove a bit weak. The five-speeder was the tougher LT77 Rover unit, but check both for a baulky shift and crunching second/third gear synchro. The Rover ’box can leak oil, and needs the correct lubricant – ATF was specified but there’s some debate as to what’s best now, with some owners preferring a modern semi-synthetic brew. Rear axles are tough, but clunks from beneath point to failing propshaft joints.
WEAR AND TEAR
Apart from rot around the front turrets and rear arms, the suspension should only need checking for tired dampers and bushes. The brakes are troublefree unless neglected (look for rotten pipework and leaking wheel cylinders) and the same goes for the steering. Worn joints can lead to vibration through the steering wheel, but overhauling the running gear is a DIY proposition. Replacing rear wheel bearings is complex, so listen for drones and rumbles.
V8 POWER
Whether a factory installation or later conversion, the Rover V8 will handle big mileages unless neglected. Regular oil and coolant changes are needed for longevity, but otherwise just check for oil leaks and compromised cylinder head gaskets. A ticking from the top end when warm indicates that the camshafts and hydraulic tappets need renewing. Parts are plentiful and it’s a very tunable unit, so ask whether any modifications or upgrades have been done.
ENGINE CHECKS
The Dolomite engine needs an oil change every 3000 miles, a new timing chain after 40,000 miles, and correct anti-freeze levels to prevent corrosion of the alloy cylinder head. Leaks from the water pump and a corroded and blocked radiator are potential pitfalls. Also watch for oil leaks and low oil pressure, the rumble of worn bearings, and excessive crankshaft end float. And check for evidence of cylinder head gasket failure – head removal on these can be a pig of a job.