Classic Car Weekly (UK)

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

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TRIUMPH TR2

Check for rot in the floorpans, sills, inner wings and the bottom and trailing edges of the front wings. The bot lid rots too, as does the inside of the boot itself.

The Lockheed-built back axle is weak. Halfshafts break, but stronger replacemen­ts are available. Alternativ­ely, you can swap to the Girling- built axle of the TR3 and TR3A.

MORRIS MINOR

Have a thorough look underneath, paying particular attention to the front chassis legs, the chassis extensions and spring hangers at the back.

Inspect the roof in both its raised and lowered position and check its fit both outside and inside. Thankfully, replacemen­ts are available.

JAGUAR E-TYPE

Aside from a full service history, plus plenty of bills and receipts, the most important factor is the panel gaps, which should be even across the car.

XK engines are rarely oil-tight, but leaks from the rear ‘rope’ seal are a worry because it’s an engine-out job to rectify.

LOTUS ELAN

The body doesn’t rust (it’s GRP) but the chassis does, so have a good look underneath. You’re checking for any accident damage and accessing any repairs.

It’s common to find that the hood leaks, particular­ly on early cars. Specialist­s can replace the fabric. Fresh door seals also help seal the cabin from the elements.

ROVER 75

Rot results from neglect (stonechips that’ve been ignored, etc.) so scuffs are a bigger concern. Don’t assume that replacemen­t bumpers are cheap.

Check for broken bonnet cables, noisy boot locks and (where fitted) blocked sunroof drains. Water that finds its way in has a habit of causing electrical gremlins.

The diesel in the 75 is a 2.0-litre, commonrail BMW unit (M47-R) that’s largely problem-free; poor running can be due to a blocked EGR valve.

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