WHAT TO LOOK FOR

ROVER 3500S

The Rover P6’s unique construction means that it’s the skeletal base that’s key here; the wings, sill covers and so on all bolt-on. As such, rot can be disguised beneath freshlooking panels. The bonnet and bootlid are aluminium, but while they don’t rot, you’ll need to check for lifting paint.

Issues relating to the Rover V8 are welldocumented. Watch for low oil pressure (15psi at idle and 25psi under load is what you’re looking for). Manual transmission in the 3500S is a development of the gearbox used in the four-pot 2000. It works hard, so some have fitted the later SD1’s five-speed LT77 gearbox.

The Ambla-trimmed seats in the 3500S are harder wearing than the fabric seats found in the four-pot cars. Of greater concern inside is a cracked dashboard as a result of sun damage. The ‘wood’ is actually Formica and easily replaced. Check too that the doorcards haven’t lifted – this is a common problem.

TRIUMPH 2500 PI MkII

It’s generally agreed that the MkII was made from poorer quality steel than was used for earlier Sixties Triumph 2000 saloons, so rust is a real threat. Sill rot can spread into the floors, which then make repairs expensive. Door bottoms, the rear valance and doubleskinned front ‘arches also need checking.

Triumph’s straight-six engine can easily go 100,000 miles between rebuilds, and there are plenty of specialists to tackle this work when the time comes if required. As it’s a Triumph engine, you’re also looking to rule out wear in the crankshaft thrust washers. Lucas PI system is complex but well understood by modern specialists.

The brushed nylon used for the MkII’s seats wears well, but be wary of collapsed seat bases that can be costly to recover. Damaged wood veneer can also be expensive to sort. By this stage in production, both the MkII and Rover 3500S will have been fitted with alternators instead of dynamos.

’The taut-handling Rover doesn’t lean in the corners, yet manages to cope with rough ground admirably’