WHAT TO LOOK FOR
RUST TROUBLE
Remove the spare wheel in the luggage compartment and check the state of the metal beneath; water ingress leads to chronic frilliness here and it could have spread to the front wishbone mounts. You’ll also need to ensure that the bottom of the A-posts and door hinge mounts aren’t rotten – the fit of the doors is a good clue to overall structural integrity. And have a good poke around underneath to establish the state of the floorpan. The good news is that the Imp Club can supply all manner of panels and repair sections, and glassfibre replacements are available, too; front wings at around £170 are far cheaper than metal ones, while a GRP bonnet is £150 if the original is beyond rescue.
IS IT WHINING?
Oil leaks from the gearbox and transaxle aren’t uncommon, and could have contaminated the rubber drive couplings. Check the latter aren’t perished or torn, while cheap replacements are a false economy; pay £80-100 a pair for decent ones. Weak synchromesh will be obvious, as will a whining transaxle and you’ll need to budget a few hundred pounds each for rebuilt units. An obstructive shift caused by worn gear lever bushes is a cheap, easy fix. Replacing the clutch is an engine-out job so ensure it feels healthy.
RUSTY MOUNTINGS
There’s nothing complicated about the all-drum brakes, and they’re trouble-free unless neglected. All the bits needed for an overhaul are cheap, too. Corrosion around the suspension mountings is the real concern, so concentrate on rear spring top mounts, front wishbone mountings, and where the rear trailing arms attach. The usual signs of leaking dampers and sagging springs need checking for as well. Equally important is ensuring that front kingpins and bushes have been greased regularly to avoid premature wear and failure, so be wary of stiff steering. Steering in good order should feel light and precise, so anything else needs investigation – excessive slop likely points to a worn rack but you can pick up overhauled units for £100 or so.
WEAR AND TEAR
The pleasingly simple interior is a real plus-point, and you’ll quickly spot neglect. Split seat cover seams and collapsing seat bases are common age-related issues, and neither are difficult to rectify, but you might find some early trim bits and switches hard to source so check it’s all there. And it’s well worth checking that perished screen seals haven’t led to water-logged carpets. There aren’t any particular electrical woes, although it’s worth checking that instruments are working properly. You’ll want to be certain that any modifications have been carried out safely.
COOL IS CRUCIAL
Engines aren’t as fragile as made out, but conscientious maintenance is key. Look for regular oil changes, while ignition timing should be spot-on to avoid running problems and ‘pinking’ (the latter could also signify a cylinder head that’s been skimmed once too often). Pay special attention to the cooling system – correct anti-freeze concentration is crucial. The system can be tricky to bleed, too. An upgraded radiator and recent water pump change are good news as overheating quickly leads to head gasket failure and head and block surface warping. Other issues include stripped cylinder head bolts, oil leaks, and blue smoke.
BEWARE OF TIN-WORM
Corrosion resistance isn’t a strong suit so be wary of tidy exteriors hiding terminal rot beneath. Careful scrutiny should begin with the inner and outer sills; inners can rust away unseen with disastrous consequences, so look for bodges and badly fitted cover sills, and check beneath the interior carpet where it runs along the sill. Wheel arches and inner wings are troublesome, along with lower wing corners and valances, and rot in the double-skinned bonnet is a tricky repair. Door bottoms, engine lid and battery tray are problem areas, and some had a vinyl roof – ensure rot isn’t lurking beneath. Huskies and vans suffer from corrosion in the tailgate, roof panel and gutters.