WHAT TO LOOK FOR

CORROSION AND LEAKS

Suspension-wise, leaks from the hydraulics could mean a costly overhaul, and you need to watch for worn rear subframe bushes and corrosion around the mounting points; rotten rear spring pans cause the springs to fall out. Worn front ball joints aren’t uncommon either, and it’s best to get a specialist to check them over. Check the powersteering hydraulics for leaks, and the Series I’s recirculating ball steering box for excessive play – there probably won’t be any adjustment left by now and a reconditioned unit is around £600. The Series 2’s rack-andpinion set-up is cheaper to replace. Good second-hand hub caps are around £100 apiece.

BRAKE BOTHERS

Complexity – and the need for special tools – often translates into neglected brakes, and a complete overhaul can leave a £5000-plus hole in your bank account. The metal pipes over the rear subframe corrode, brake calipers seize and the flexible hoses need to be replaced every 96k miles even if they look okay – given that there are ten in all, you

STILL LOOKING LUXURIOUS?

can expect a hefty labour bill. A minor weep from the distribution valves beneath the driver’s seat area is common, and not a major issue, but ensure that the correct Castrol RR363 fluid has been used for top-up or renewal. Brake warning lights on the dashboard that don’t illuminate and extinguish correctly are a concern and can cost time and money to trouble-shoot. Restoration or replacement of the leather or matched wood veneers is a job for an expert (and far from cheap), so condition is crucial. Make sure that water ingress hasn’t created a damp cabin. Getting failed electrics going again is equally costly, so check the operation of windows and seat adjusters, and you’ll want to be certain that the airconditioning blows ice cold as it’s fearsomely expensive to fix. Check that a leaking heater matrix hasn’t caused wet carpets.

CORROSION CONCERNS

The doors, bonnet and boot lid are aluminium so check for corrosion where they meet the steel structure, and where trim and brightwork are attached. Check the battery tray for rot, also the inner front wings and suspension turrets, rear wheel arches, valances, front wings where they meet the sills, and the sills themselves – replacing those can be a £7000 job for both sides. Corrosion also strikes below the ‘Everflex’ vinyl roof, so watch for bubbling, and check that water hasn’t leaked into the boot or past perished screen seals.

SMOOTH OPERATION

Maintained properly, both engines are long-lasting and the 6.75-litre unit should be capable of covering up to 250,000 miles before a rebuild is needed. Oil changes every 6000 miles prevent cam-follower wear and sludging of the hydraulic tappets, but watch for leaks from perished seals and gaskets. Ticking from cold can be caused by cracked exhaust manifolds and you’ll need to budget around £600 per pair for second-hand ones. Both V8s should be super-smooth, so any lumpiness could mean an overhaul of the carburettors or ignition system is on the cards.

PERFECT PAINTWORK

The floorpan is rust-prone. Also, get a good look underneath for signs of accident damage or poor repairs. Major restoration costs a small fortune, as will a quality respray, so don’t ignore a shabby paint job; you’ll also need to ensure that exterior trim isn’t damaged or missing. Rear bumpers can rot through at the edges, and repairing that famous radiator grille isn’t easy – a reconditioned item, including shell and vanes, can cost in the region of £2000.

TRANSMISSION MAINTENANCE

The later three-speed GM transmission is generally considered to be more reliable than the earlier four-speeder, but you can’t swap them over. Fresh fluid and filters every 12k/24k miles respectively keeps things healthy, although age can lead to problems with the electric selector mechanism. It’s also worth checking that corrosion hasn’t caused leaks from the oil cooler pipework. Oil can also escape from the differential. Finally, listen for knocking from worn universal joints.

CRUCIAL COOLING CHECKS

Check the integrity of the cylinder head gaskets and pay special attention to the cooling system. Regular maintenance is required to prevent a damaging buildup of sediment, leading to problems with the cylinder liners and a costly engine rebuild. The correct levels of anti-freeze are crucial, as is using the right stuff – changing it annually is wise. You’ll pay around £40 for five litres and the system needs 16 litres! Ensure the fan, radiator and hoses are all in good order, too. Any hint of piston knock could point to previous overheating, and it’d be best to walk away.