Mods and Consequences

Morgan Plus 4 and 4/4

’Modifications invariably increase desirability and maybe values, too’

You can still buy a brandnew Morgan 4/4, despite the fact that the model was first sold back in 1936. Morgan still has a Plus 4 in its price lists too, but that model didn’t appear until 1950.

Those first cars were flat-radiator models; the cowled-radiator Plus 4 appeared in 1953 with a 2088cc Standard Vanguard engine, while the cowled-radiator 4/4 (the Series 2) was introduced in 1955 with a Ford 100E sidevalve engine. The 4/4 Series 3 of 1960 brought an Anglia 105E powerplant; a year later the Series 4 got a 1340cc Ford Consul Classic engine while the Series 5 (from 1963) featured a Cortina GT unit. A 1600 Kent engine arrived in 1968 then, from 1982, a Ford CVH unit was fitted (injected from 1991) – a few Fiat 1.6-litre twin-campowered 4/4s were made between 1981 and 1983. From 1993 a Ford Zetec engine was used.

Meanwhile, the Plus 4 got a TR2 engine from 1954, a TR3 unit from 1956 and a TR4 powerplant from 1962. A TR4A engine was used between 1965 and 1968 but then there was a hiatus in production until the model was revived in 1985 with a 2.0-litre Fiat twin-cam; this gave way to a Rover 2.0 M16 lump in 1988. The Plus 4 got a wider body and chassis in 1992, when a Rover T16 engine was adopted. The Plus 4 went out of production in 2000 but reappeared in 2004 with a 2.0-litre Ford Duratec engine.

While the 4/4 and Plus 4 have always had different engines and transmissions from each other, the body, chassis and running gear have always been largely interchangeable. As a result, suspension, steering, brake, electrical or trim tweaks for one are suitable for

the other.

Most of the four-cylinder Morgans in regular use are post-1970s models.

Brian Gateson runs Hertfordshire Morgan specialist, Techniques, and has been working on the marque since the early 1980s. He says: ‘One of the great things about Morgans is that they’re generally very easy to improve at home. That’s especially true of the carburetted cars; the 4/4 was injected from 1991 and the Plus 4 from 1988.

‘Incorporating modifications invariably increases desirability and maybe the value, too. But there’s no point aiming for significantly more performance; we once had a customer who turbocharged his car, which then meant having to fit bigger brakes, including a rear disc conversion. By the time he’d done that he might as well have just bought a Roadster.’

FIT A FRUITIER EXHAUST The factory mild steel exhaust system can sound rather tame, so fitting a sportier stainless steel system is popular. These can release a bit more power but the rortier sound is more important to most owners. UPRATE THE SUSPENSION Adjustable dampers (Koni or AVO are popular, the latter being easiest to adjust) and geometry tweaks improve ride/ handling and sharpen the steering. A rear Panhard rod (£225) improves axle location when cornering. FIT A LOWERGEARED DIFF’ Morgan sometimes fitted low-geared diff’ ratios to improve economy and reduce noise. A shorter diff’ ratio, such as a 4.1:1, improves acceleration through the gears. Later cars‘ 3.7:1 axle blunts acceleration appreciably. INSTALL HEATED SEATS Top-down winter drives will be a lot more comfortable if you’re sitting on heated seats. Heating elements can be fitted to your Morgan’s existing seats – if they’re being retrimmed anyway, budget £250 to add them. LIGHTEN THE STEERING Morgan steering isn’t usually unduly heavy, but Berrybrook Morgan can supply and/or fit a hydraulic power steering system. It just bolts into place so it’s completely reversible; Berrybrook will fit it all for £540. FIT STRONGER BRAKES £500+ There’s no need to uprate your Morgan’s brakes if it hasn’t had a power increase, but if it has it‘s worth fitting stronger anchors, especially up front where you can fit four- or six-pot calipers as well as grooved and ventilated discs. FIT AUTOMATIC LUBRICATION £75 £1200+ £450+ £2500 £475 £2640 The sliding pillar front suspension’s kingpin must be lubricated every 3000 miles. It’s not a big deal but even easier if you fit a remote greasing kit, which allows you to lubricate everything via a pair of nipples on the inner wing.