What to look for
LOOK FOR QUALITY REPAIRS
The expense involved means that restorations might not have been as thoroughly executed as you’d hope, so be on the lookout for wonky panel gaps, poor welding and signs of filler. Sourcing panels for early cars and estates isn’t always easy, either. It’s also wise to get a prospective purchase on a ramp, if possible. Dissolving floors are a real possibility on neglected examples, exacerbated by leaks from the folding sunroof. It’s a good chance to examine the suspension mountings, too, particularly the area around the rear springs. Look for signs of previous crash damage – rear impacts can knock the engine and transmission out of alignment.
BE ON ALERT FOR RUST
High restoration bills can lurk beneath that cute exterior, so don’t let the titchy dimensions lull you into a false sense of security. Rust can really take hold, so careful scrutiny of the panels and seams is required. Inner and outer wheel arches, sills, and door bottoms are obvious trouble spots, but be sure to examine the edges of the engine cover and front bonnet, around the front and rear screens, and the roof gutters (particularly where they end above the engine lid) too. The front panel around the headlamps is a known rot-spot and check the front luggage compartment, concentrating on the battery tray and beneath the spare wheel.
CHECK THE SPRINGS
Although the suspension is simple, it’s not without its foibles, corrosion being the major concern. The transverse front leaf spring benefits from regular lubrication. If you spot any bulges, it’s probably succumbed to rust; around £100 bags a new one. The rear semi-trailing arms can also suffer from rot and cracks, so inspect them thoroughly. And returning to the front, it’s important to check that a previous owner has lubricated the kingpins every 10001500 miles; they’ll seize and fail if this simple job is ignored.
HOW’S THE TRANSMISSION?
Remember that all original gearboxes lack synchromesh, so double-declutching skills will be needed. Wear and ham-fisted use can result in excessive noise or jumping out of gear, and oil leaks from the casing and driveshaft gaiters aren’t uncommon, so budget for a re-build or replacement. Alternatively, you could swap to the Fiat 126 transmission and engine, which is a common mod; if originality is important to you, then make sure that you know exactly what’s been fitted.
CHECK THE CAR’S CABIN
The electrics couldn’t be simpler – a complete loom is less than £200 – but check for corroded fuse contacts and that the dynamo and charging system are working properly, . There’s not much interior to inspect, so any damage or tattiness will be easy to spot. Split vinyl trim and cracked plastics are the likeliest issues, and while a re-trim is straightforward and specialists can refurbish items like the steering wheel, its worth bearing in mind that very early parts can be hard to find. Replacing a shabby fabric roof costs from £100 depending on type. Bits for right-hand drive cars can also prove scarce, and you’ll want to be sure that any conversion from left-hand drive has been done properly.
AVOID BAD BRAKES
Overhauling the drum brakes is easy and cheap. Problems tend to be caused by leaking wheel cylinders or seized adjuster mechanisms – remember that they are single circuit, so the condition of the pipes and flexible hoses is crucial; major fluid leaks risk complete brake failure. Wear in the steering box or idler arm causes vagueness while over-adjustment to cure play leads to stiffness – in either case, an overhaul is possible or a replacement box is around £300-350.
IS IT KEEPING ITS COOL?
Exhaust smoke, worn timing chains and rocker cover/sump oil leaks are potential issues, while pressure in the crankcase that forces oil out of the dipstick tube points to an imminent re-build. And pay special attention to the cooling system; overheating will damage the cylinder head gaskets or the aluminium heads, so ensure that the cooling flap operates as it should (and hasn’t been wedged open as a ‘fix’) and that the engine tin-ware isn’t missing. Lumpy running or stalling can be a sign of iffy cooling. An engine that struggles to start, especially when hot, could have a worn carburettor or distributor. Failed ignition condensers can be an issue and look for evidence of regular spark plug changes.