WHAT TO LOOK FOR
HOW’S THE CABIN?
Don’t despair if the cabin’s a bit scruffy because everything you’ll need is available, although costs can mount up for a complete refurb. Ensure that the carpets aren’t damp or musty because that brings the threat of floor corrosion. Also, previous owners may have carried out modifications so, if you prefer originality, factor in the work and cost involved in reversing them. Lastly, a check of the electrics for dodgy earths and connections and for any signs of alteration or bodges is always sensible.
IS THE ENGINE HEALTHY?
The B-series engine is a tough old thing, and a DIY overhaul isn’t difficult or costly. Watch out for low oil pressure and lubricant escaping from perished gaskets and the crankshaft seals, along with a smoky exhaust indicating worn cylinder bores. Blue smoke could also be caused by a blocked crankcase breather. Rumbles from the bottom end and a worn timing chain and valve-gear are other concerns, and it’s worth checking the health of the cooling system; a silted radiator or leaking water pump is easily sorted.
SCRUTINISE THE SHELL
A sound monocoque shell is crucial; corrosion has a nasty habit of getting deep inside with expensive consequences. A re-shell costs thousands, so walk away from anything really bad unless you want a full-on project. Rust can affect almost every panel, so make sure that the inner and outer wings, door bottoms, bonnet edges and doubleskinned tailgate aren’t bubbling. The windscreen surround and scuttle can also succumb – repairs can get rather involved if it’s bad here – so check carefully.
CHECK THE SILLS
The sills require extra attention – proper repairs entail the bottom of the front and rear wings being cut off, so there’s plenty of scope for skulduggery and bodges, with cover sills masking dire corrosion. Have a thorough look at the jacking points, outriggers, floor panels and rear spring hangers. Box sections, battery tray, fuel tank and body pillars also need careful scrutiny. If the car you’re looking at has been restored, check how well it was done Poorlyfitting doors and iffy panel alignment should ring alarm bells.
CHEAP BRAKES
Overhauling the MGB’s utterly conventional disc/drum brakes couldn’t be simpler and is pleasingly inexpensive. You can source new discs, pads and shoes for around £55, and changing them is an easy job. The only thing to watch for, then, is neglect, so look for corrosion caused by lack of use and any signs of rotten pipework. It’s easy enough to smarten up tatty Rostyle wheels, but it’s wise to check for ancient and perished rubber, especially if annual mileages have been low.
CHECK FOR SOUND SUSPENSION
Corroded suspension mountings can be a pricey fix, but if they’re solid then look for leaking lever-arm dampers, sagging rear leaf springs and perished front wishbone bushes. Replacements are cheap – reconditioned dampers are around £35 each, for example – so just haggle accordingly if an overhaul is on the cards. Check for wear in the front kingpins by jacking the car up and rocking the wheels top and bottom – and look for evidence in the history file that they have been greased every 3000 miles.
NOISY TRANSMISSIONS
Keep an ear out for the usual whines, rumbles and noisy synchromesh during the test drive and make sure that it doesn’t jump out of gear on the overrun. Check for correct operation of the overdrive – most problems are caused by electrical issues or low oil levels, but if the problem is more serious, then budget around £500 for a reconditioned unit. Noisy rear axles rarely fail completely but check for oil leaks from the differential casing and for signs that the propshaft joints are past their best.