WHAT TO LOOK FOR

CORROSION CONCERNS

Minis of all kinds and purposes love to rust and bodywork is usually the most expensive thing that will go wrong on a standard-specification car. As the most common structural areas to corrode, pay particular attention to the sills (ideally by lifting the carpets, if it is fitted with them) and rear subframe. Be sure to go over the bottom of the doors, the A-panel and below the headlights with a magnet to look for any hidden filler, too.

CHECK ITS ENGINE AND GEARBOX

You’ll need a Mini Cooper MkI to compete in pre-’66 races – a common date cut-off in historic motorsport – which can easily be identified by their ‘moustache’ grilles.

There were many forms of Cooper, too – not just the 1275cc Cooper S – with 970cc, 997cc, 998cc and 1071cc versions available. Some have been converted, so check that a 1275cc Cooper S isn’t a conversion – however well-executed – masquerading as a genuine car.

STRONG STOPPERS?

Minis don’t need a great deal of suspension work to get race-ready but racing Minis will have modified engines. It’s possible to bore out to 1380cc – but be careful with these cars, because this would fall between classes in many events, such as the popular U2TC, and be uncompetitive. Many are bored to 1293cc to stay under 1300cc as a result. About 125bhp is the most you can get out of such an engine, so a dyno result close to this figure would suggest that it’s a competitive car.